PHOTOJOURNEYS

a youth ceremony in Bali

2009-08-17T21:42:00.001+08:00

It was the weekend before our wedding in April 2007 and my fiancée and I were wandering around Bali. On a whim, I decided to go to Seminyak, a beach that is increasingly becoming popular as its neighbor, the overwhelmingly commercial center that is Kuta.

We were to get married on an auspicious day in the Balinese calendar (near full moon I remember) so the days around it also tend to be ceremony-heavy. Sure enough, when we dropped by the temple at Seminyak, there already was a crowd hovering by the beach. Practically all were teenagers, with nary an adult guiding them. Too bad I forgot to ask what the occasion was. Maybe it was the commemoration of Saraswati, when students would offer gifts to the goddess of the knowledge and learning. Or perhaps not.

Regardless, I can understand why Bali’s culture remains safe from the dilution of modernity and influence from the external world. Even the youth knows the wisdom of tradition. The heartfelt and easygoing manner they went by the ceremony, from the beach to the temple, showed that custom and faith are in safe hands.

early morning scenes at Boracay

2009-08-13T22:03:00.001+08:00

Boracay definitely deserves its reputation as a happening place, where one wants to see and be seen. Its night life is renowned for wild parties. Always with its share of socialites, movie actors, models and wannabes, Boracay makes star-spotting an easy sport.

Early in the morning, Boracay turns a different leaf. The crowd is almost altogether absent and the din is gone. Sunrise is no less beautiful though and for those who’d make the effort, the scenes can be rewarding. Maybe this was Boracay that a lot swore to love many decades ago… if only for a few hours.

more wild krupuk

2009-08-09T20:36:00.001+08:00

So you thought the krupuk here looks outlandish and different? I went back to the same store in Tabanan and my friend took out even more wildly colorful and gorgeously patterned crackers.

With patterns resembling onion-peels and shapes like extruded woven biscuits, the krupuk can be anything in Indonesia. Imagination has no limitations.

soaking in the sun at Boracay

2009-08-06T22:39:00.000+08:00

There could never be a dull moment in Boracay. Every summer, and even after that, the island teems with people, with local tourists hobnobbing with foreigners seeking fun and solace in the sun.

Here is a partial list of what one can do in the most happening beach in the Philippines:

1. Sunbathe. Most Filipinos probably would want to be fair and white like Caucasians but for the few who love the color brown, the wide white beach is open to all.

2. Lounge under the shade. A definite alternative for those who don’t want #1.

3. Go boating. Explore the neighboring isles and coves of Boracay. One can even opt to go snorkeling or swim in beaches that are in the itinerary. Routs and rates are pretty much standardized.

4. Sail. Local boats called the parao spill all over White Beach waiting for visitors to enjoy the deep blue sea. For a few hours, you can feel oneness with the ocean.

5. Go diving. Premier dive spots abound in Boracay. Spot a manta or explore the wild world of the reef. SCUBA is for all ages.

6. Cavort. OK, so this is totally for the immodest. But as they say, what happens in Boracay, stayes in Boracay.

the reliefs of Taman Ujung in Karangasem

2009-08-05T20:07:00.000+08:00

Taman Ujung, or officially Taman Soekasada Ujung, is an architectural experiment completed in 1919 by King of Karangasem who blended European classic design and traditional Balinese esthetics. The complex is a water palace with pavilions and bridges built over large ponds .

It has suffered extensive damage during the eruption of Gunung Agung in 1963 and during the violent tremblor in 1970. While there are never-ending but unfulfilled plans of further reconstruction, there is enough glimpse of the artistic heights that this palace achieved. Amidst the ruins and the state of disrepair, the palace promontories still offer killer views of the Gunung Agung in the West and the Lombok Strait in the East.

Also notable are the extant bas reliefs in the surviving pavilions, terraces, fences and bridges which depicted characters derived from Hindu legends, most probably from Mahabharata.

In praise of Makassar’s Hasannudin airport

2009-08-03T21:32:00.000+08:00

Arriving in Makassar’s Hasannudin airport last week was a shock, in a most pleasant way. Gone was the cramped musty terminal! In its place is Indonesia’s swankiest and newest airport, with gates and halls that are as wide as football pitches. For more than 70 decades, the old Hasannudin airport has serviced this city, normally considered the gateway of East Indonesia. The market and traffic certainly have grown since and by the time that the new millennium came, the government has started plans to move out of the cramped quarters. It certainly helped that the immediate past vice president Kallah is from South Sulawesi. By no coincidence, the construction of the new airport was fast-tracked and opened just before he left the office. (NB- He ran and lost in last month’s presidential elections).

the airport is said to have been designed and built by local contractors

the predominance of glass ushers in natural light

hallways are cavernous so people have to walk long distances inside the terminal

After just about one year of operation, there is still only one international flight flying into Makassar (Air Asia, with Kuala Lumpur flights) but other airlines may just follow suit. With an equally new multi-lane concrete free way shrinking travel time around South Sulawesi, the city of Makassar is ripe for development.

giant boarding gates offer comfortable space to the passengers

air bridges connect the boarding gates and the planes

To go: Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport is in South Sulawesi, between the border of its capital city, Makassar and Maros. It is about 17 km from Makassar central via the new toll hiway (15 min).

Chinese delights in Kuta’s Furama

2009-08-01T20:24:00.002+08:00

Over the years of travel, I’ve etched into memory the restaurants which never fail me when it comes to taste and experience. When it comes to Cantonese food in Bali, one of my favorites happens to be the most convenient too in terms of location. Just a few minutes from the airport, Furama is typical Chinese: little frills, fast service, and moderately price.

nighttime scene in Furama

my favorite craving: freshly steamed shrimps

bird’s nest soup

Furama’s specialty is seafood, which is obvious with the giant prawn sign on its façade. Amidst the stiff competition in the tourist haven that is Bali, Furama manages to stand out not just to me but to the many patrons that continuously fill the place without fail. It still is true, when choosing a restaurant, go to where people flock. The majority often can’t be all wrong.

highly recommended: steamed fish in soy

mixed vegetables with tofu

Chinese vegetables with garlic

To go: FURAMA is in Jalan Raya Tuban 52B, Kuta, Bali, Indonesia.

going hot, hot, hot in Makassar

2009-07-27T22:57:00.001+08:00

Kayangan Restaurant (Ayam Kampung and Ikan Segar)

My nose was running and my vision was quickly blurring. Tears welled in my eyes but these are all good. Despite my avowed tolerance, spice and chili still do that to me. I love what I was having.

the simple restaurant front of Rumah Makan Kayangan

Rumah Makan Kayangan is your typical Makassar restaurant - they are invariably scattered along and in the periphery of the boulevard at Losari beach downtown – cheap, no-frills and brimming with the freshest of produce caught in nearby waters. Displayed over ice to keep them unspoilt for the day, the choices of fish, crabs, prawns are wide-ranged and impressive.

fresh seafood displayed on ice

It’s difficult to do wrong in a Makassar restaurants. Whether you chose to have the seafood steamed, deep-fried, or stewed, your selection reappears on your table fast. Here, cooking has been fine-tuned to a clockwork science that commands just about 5 minutes from ordering to delivery. Or 10 minutes tops.

ikan kakap putih digoreng or deep-fried fish

kepiting saus sambal or crab cooked in hot sauce

Because Makassar is a hub of farming or fishing, food is relatively cheap when compared to other big cities like Surabaya, Jakarta or Bali. If the desire is for the freshest catch though, premium still has to be paid. Still, I find the prices quite reasonable. The ikan kakap putih which easily was more than a kilo only set us back about 3 USD and the live blue crab was about 7 USD, cooking charge included.

mango and mint, basic ingredients for the sauce

four hot sauces, traditional in Makassar cuisine

In Makassar, the secret in the taste, and this differentiates cuisine in Indonesia, is the set of sauces that come with the food. As a rule of thumb, Makassar sauces are spicy. There are at least 4 on the table, from pure peanut paste, to various sambal mixes ranging from the tolerably hot to the devilishly unbearable. Always, where there are chili seeds, beware! Not that I could stop myself. If the biting heat of the pepper calls for sacrifice, I, for one, am willing to be punished.

kangkung cah (water lettuce salad) as a delectable side dishL

freshly squeezed local orange juice can be useful in downing the heat of the spicy dishes

To go: Rumah Makan Kayangan is in Jl Datumuseng No 20, Samping RS Stella Maris Pantai Losari, Makassar, South Sulawesi (tel +411 325273).

the Cacing Diaries #45

2009-07-25T17:47:00.001+08:00

pretty in pink

For the first time in her young 1 ½ years of existence, Cacing cried when I said goodbye today. It’s just one of my usual week-long trips abroad – there’ll be lots more down the road – but increasingly, each time I leave for a trip, Cacing is becoming more aware of her emotions. She still has no concrete concept of time. It is safe to suppose that she quickly got over my departure. But soon it would be different and I’ll have to contend to her heartache. And mine.

the muses of my life, at my mom’s place in Talisay this May

testing the crown

those eyes are smart!

smiling and clowning

the roller brush as a toy

a pink princess

testing the jackfruit

a tease in front of the camera

at the backseat of the car

hand embroidery, Balinese style

2009-07-22T22:34:00.000+08:00

If wood carving were the artistic domain of men, women are traditionally associated with the fine art form in embroidery. In pre-colonial times however, Balinese women were known to go topless. Fine cut and pierced or lace embroidery may not exactly be a Balinese art after all in a historical perspective. The fact remains that when Dutch mores of modesty were implemented early in the 20th century, the requirement to be fully clothed in public was met with resentment by women and going bare was used as a form of protest.

In modern times, Bali has already fully adopted full clothing, especially in the context of Indonesia being a predominantly Muslim country. Like the rest of the nation, Balinese costume wear is derivative of the kebaya blouses native to the Javanese.

But despite being late in the game, Balinese women, judging from the quality of lace work displayed in several artisan shops spread all over the island, already have become master embroiders in their own right.

pining for more wood carvings

2009-07-21T22:45:00.000+08:00

It’s like a malady. I’m hooked on wood carvings, particularly those from Bali . My particular addiction dates back almost 10 years now and my collection is growing.

When in Bali, I also make it a point to visit workshops to personally select which pieces I would like to bring back. As wood is heavy and luggage allowances are limited, I am finicky with what I buy.

In my next trip to Bali next week, I probably would visit this particular Denpasar shop. I’ll be ordering something big and probably would have it shipped to Cebu. Call me excited.

the seaweed farmhouses of Hingutanan

2009-07-20T21:16:00.002+08:00

In Bohol, particularly in the northern part of the province facing Leyte, seaweed is big. Considered as one of Bohol’s most productive centers is the small island of Hingutanan. The island is politically part of the municipality of Bien Unido and is now divided into two barangays, East and West. A visit in Hingutanan would however reveal that seaweed is largely grown outside of island, a bit further into the reef. There, tens of farmhouses have been erected on stilts, serving both as a drying platform and as an entrepot of dried seaweed.

bamboo is the common material of the seaweed farmhouses

green and brown seaweed at Hingutanan

seaweed lines being planted on the reef of Danahon

arriving at a platform at Hingutanan

Seaweed farming started in late 70s and today, it is considered as a popular industry for its low capitalization requirement and steady market. There are two types of seaweed grown in Bohol- cottonii and spinosum. Both may appear in various morphological types, sizes and colors. Spinosum, the cheaper variety, is noted for its spines that are arranged in whorls around the thallus. Cottonii, is free of these spines.

seaweed being at a platform in Hingutanan

weighing the wet harvest

fish, dried under the sun

motorized outrigger boat serving the farmhouse

rediscover some Sukawati treasures

2009-07-19T20:39:00.000+08:00

The art market of Sukawati Bali is one of my favorite haunts. Practically every handicraft sold in Bali can be found there in cheap prices. Quality could be suspect but if you know where to look for, a deal is always there to be had. Here is a selection of some novelties that were begging to be photographed.

a miniature 3-layer pajeng umbrella set

frangipani flowers being dried

some kitchen or ceremonial straw items that I cannot identify

some Balinese altars

traditional Balinese offerings in front of a shrine at the market

wooden buddhas for sale

off to Tigwatian (Crystal Cove), Boracay

2009-07-18T21:08:00.001+08:00

Crystal Cove. The name sounds commercial and it is. It is the popular name of the resort which occupies Laurel island which just 30 minutes by boat from Boracay. Blessed with the same sugar-fine white sand which makes Boracay a byword in world-class tourism, it is famous for its two caves, as well as its prime takeoff location for diving and snorkeling.

approaching Tigwatian or Crystal Cove

the paraw- Boracay’s local outrigger boat

In our island hopping in Boracay last May, we only stayed in the island momentarily. Laurel island is formerly known as Tigwatian, an onomatopoeia of the sing-song chirp of an exotic bird. There’s another tale that the island is the home of the fairies too. Either way, and by any other name, the islet is enchanting.

behind the boat is Caticlan, Aklan

the Cacing Diaries #44

2009-07-16T22:17:00.003+08:00

at Mactan, Cebu, the Philippines

Seems like an eternity when Cacing was able to go to the beach. Blame it on the stormy weather. It is rainy season in the Philippines and we don’t like going out when it’s wet.

tresses gone wild

loving the sea (with my wife’s mom)

testing chocolates

The opportunity came when my wife had her high school reunion. As a fitting finale, their batch decided on family time at the Portofino Beach Resort in Mactan. So we got a room for the day. As always, Cacing was the star of my wife’s family and mine.

gee… my hair is long

checking out her hair

a modelic pose

in the pool with her yaya Jinjin

racing to the beach

pictures from Kiwengwa

2009-07-15T21:21:00.003+08:00

Kiwengwa is just one of the many white sandy beaches of Zanzibar. Just about 40 kilometers northeast of Stonetown, the island’s capital, Kiwengwa is popular to the tourists – the village has at least 7 resorts – but more importantly to me, it also harbors a healthy concentration of seaweed farms.

a coconut tree that stoops so low it is almost horizontal

the beach of Kiwengwa

another postcard shot of Kiwengwa

It was high tide during my visit so instead, we just took in the view. Most notable in Kiwengwa are the tall and regal coconut trees. It seems that these trees are not harvested for their lumber as they now reach 50 feet, even more. The pictures, here, show how picturesque Kiwengwa can be.

fishing boats docked in Kiwengwa's natural harbor

a couple of women in Kiwengwa

a desolate beach

resort staff lugging some bananas

the Friday mosque of Kiponda

2009-07-13T23:47:00.002+08:00

The Ijamaa mosque is large by the standards of Stonetown. There are at least 30 mosques in this old quarters of Zanzibar and this is one of the oldest.

the Ijumaa Mosque sits in the narrow alleys of Kiponda, Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania

façade of the Ijumaa Mosque

the elaborately carved wooden door of Ijumaa Mosque

Known in Kiswahili as Msikiti Ya Ijumaa Mizingani, it was originally built by Sunni immigrants from Faza in 1831. Like most of the mosques in Zanzibar, it was simple and unpretentious. It underwent several renovations and expansions notably in the 1850s and the 1950s. In 1994, the Ijumaa Mosque was refurbished in a more modern arabesque style with geometric arches and ramparts with funds from Arabic states. A marker in the mosque proclaims it as the burial place of famous Muslim scholars in Zanzibar.

an old gas lamp converted to electric

a small cube of a building right across the mosque

Arabic markers in marble

rampart shadows of the mosque

the Cacing Diaries #43

2009-07-10T21:39:00.000+08:00

at Boracay, Aklan, the Philippines

It’s Cacing time!

I’ve made a resolution to post a Cacing entry once a week to clear my backlog of Cacing pictures. The photos here are only a couple of months old but Cacing is growing so fast that she may look quite differently today already.

smiling inside our Cebu Pacific flight

posing inside the plane

Cacing with her mom at Station 3, Boracay island, Aklan

mother and daughter

When we went to Boracay last May, Cacing was just learning how to walk solo but now she zips and breezes too quick for us already. Her awareness of the world around her increases by the day. The games she learns and invents by herself take us constantly by surprise.

my Mom at Boracay

it’s Cacing with her Yaya Jinjin

that’s my wife, Dia

it’s Cacing’s early morning look

And lovable as she is, Cacing keenly knows what she wants and tries to get it. If she were an adult she’d be manipulative. For today, she is just plain endearing.

foray at the church grounds of Balabag’s Holy Rosary Parish

my Mom during a Boracay sunset (she’s 68!)

my daughter enjoying a boat trip around the island

my mother-in-law, my wife and my Mom, with Cacing, after their massage session at the Mandala Spa, the Discovery Shores (talk about real splurge!)

stroll time with her Mom

quick stop: Paje Ndame

2009-07-09T22:41:00.001+08:00

quick stop: Paje Ndame

Religiously, I pushed the pin right on the spot where Cebu lies in the world map that is spread over the cork board. I see that I am the 3rd Filipino who took the time to mark the map. I know there are lot more of us who actually have passed by this restaurant of Paje Ndame Village, as it is right where the seaweed farms are.

a standard bungalow at Paje Ndame

beachside huts

For one hot afternoon last month, Paje Ndame was where we grabbed a rather late lunch after visiting the seaweed farms. The menu selection is spare and simple - just a few continental dishes here and there with some Kiswahili favorites and seafood basics. We ended up with kingfish in coconut sauce which turned out to be fresh, delectable and with just the right spiciness.

like an open invitation to the sun and sea

our order: kingfish in coconut sauce

Fancy is not what you would associate this boutique hotel. The accommodations may not be deluxe but the bungalows boast of a beach view and are definitely cozy and comfortable. Prices start at under $100 too and in a renowned beach such as Paje no less. Now if they’d only offer internet!

beachview of Paje

To go: Paje Ndame Village is located in Paje, which is 50 km southeast of Stonetown, Zanzibar or about an hour by road.

crackling the krupuk

2009-07-08T21:39:00.005+08:00

Krupuk, kropek, keropok… These crackling chips are ubiquitous in East and Southeast Asia. Coming often as prawn crackers, they are served as starters in a lot of Asian restaurants for the diners to munch while they wait for their main courses.

a collage of krupuk for sale at a village store in Tabanan, Bali, Indonesia

orange-edged krupuk

flower-shaped crackers

In Indonesia though, these crackers are serious business and they come in countless forms, sizes, colors and flavors like nuts, vegetables, fowl, seafood or meat. A visit in a village store in Tabanan, Bali show so much varieties that boggle the eyes. Displayed in sacks or large plastic bags, they literally sell fast as krupuk is basic side dish fare in Bali and is even commonly used as offering.

krupuk with what seem to be peanuts, beans or tempe

fish-flavored krupuk

pink krupuk with yellow trim

As for me, I often would bring pack of krupuk of the Tanjung brand. These are not available in the supermarket though and I have to order them from Sidoarjo, East Java. This city is probably one of the most renowned centers of manufacture of Indonesian krupuk although I hear that West Java’s Garut produces fine krupuk as well.

a typical crowd jostling to buy krupuk at the Tanjung store in Sidoarjo, East Java

colored krupuk

Recipes vary from shop to shop but the basic ingredients are the same: tapioca flour, egg, sugar, salt, spices and flavor essence. These are mixed in large vats and then the dough is rolled thin, steamed, and then sliced or cut before sun-drying. The krupuk are sold wafer-thin but they expand like popcorn when deep-fried. As expected, these crackers absorb so much oil during frying so they are not the healthiest food. But like many fans of the krupuk, I am not complaining.

multicolored-trimmed krupuk

plain krupuk

Stalking the woman in red in Uzi

2009-07-07T17:37:00.005+08:00

Photographing landscapes is hard enough. But taking portraits of strangers poses a special challenge. You just wouldn't know how people would react being photographed. Others feel that it is an invasion of privacy which it really can be, getting annoyed if not downright angry. Some are too shy and would walk away from the lens.

an aerial view of Ng’ambwe, Uzi which I eventually visited on-site

3 women of Ng’ambwe

the woman in red was working with several ladies when I first approached her

On occasions, I can be lucky. Take this woman in a blazing red dress in Ng’ambwe, Uzi. She was at first nonchalant and then became engaging. It helped that I lingered in the location for awhile and that must have made them more comfortable with me. I was interested in what they were doing – they were planting seaweed – and they probably recognize too some of my companions who they might have worked with in the past.

holding some seaweed planting material

an engaging smiling

As a subject, I could not ask for anything more. Her red dress is fiery and catches the light glaringly. And her generous personality showed in the shots that I took.

unbridled laughter

her easygoing work demeanor shows here

a final take

To go: Uzi is about 25 km southeast of Stonetown, Zanzibar, accessible by road only during low tide via a causeway at Unguja Ukuu.

take me to Magsaysay Park

2009-07-05T21:37:00.000+08:00

So Magsaysay Park of Davao City has a wide open public plaza for strolling. The children’s playground, restaurant and ampitheatre present families ample attraction especially during weekends. It even has government offices which makes the park a public affairs destination.

across the fruit stalls of Magsaysay Park is the Chinatown gate

selecting the durian

However, to me, Magsaysay Park is the place to be to get my durian fix. Sure there were pomelos, mangosteens, oranges, mangoes and other fruits. But when you are in Davao, you know you are where the king of fruits are in abundance. By reputation the best durians are in Davao and as you can see here, I was not disappointed.

durian sharing in the park

eating out

To go: Magsaysay Park is in Leon Garcia Street, Agdao District, Davao City, the Philippines

craving for Troika

2009-07-04T21:04:00.000+08:00

You want to know my all time favorite chocolate? It is fabulous Nidar’s Troika from Norway. The description on the wrapper says it all: marzipan, truffle and jelly covered with dark chocolate. The combination, I tell you, is made in heaven.

I first tasted Troika in Bergen in 2004. The shiny red package intrigued me. One bite was all it took and I was a convert. Not much of a fan of almond marzipan paste, I was however floored by the mix of thin layer of soft jelly and the chocolate. I immediately bought several packs and over the next week or so after coming back from my trip in Europe, I finished my stash.

The following year, I ordered some bars online and had them delivered to my sister’s apartment in New York just in time when I went there for a business trip. It’s been a few years since then but the chocolate’s wax paper wrapper I saved. Today, it is still lovingly pinned on my office corkboard as I know that it could be useful someday. Luckily late last year, a colleague went to Norway on a business and I only had one request: Troika. I ended up with three bars but they were all that I needed.

I still have one more piece that I have put in storage. I’m waiting for a special event to eat it. I can wait, for now.

Nidar’s Troika
Nidar AS, N-7005 Trondheim, Norway, www.nidar.no, +4773 583333

Pemba from above, part 3

2009-07-03T22:12:00.002+08:00

This is the third installment of my aerial photographs of Pemba island which lies north of the Zanzibari archipelago. It is considered the “green appendage” of Zanzibar, known for its lush forests of cloves, coconuts and mangoes.

surreal seascape in Northwest Pemba

an isolated beach in Ngagu

Ngagu is still devoid of mass tourism

the reef between Mjini Kiuyu and Kiwani

Pemba’s development has long been associated with the dhow, the traditional wooden sail boats that were the connection between Africa and the Arabian peninsula. Utterly dependent on strong tradewinds, dhows brought cloves to mainland Aisa and in return, sent back cargoes such as wood and silver. Even today, dhows continue to connect Pemba and the rest of its East African neighbors like Kenya and Mozambique.

aerial of the farms of Mjini Kiuyu

Maziwa Ngombe shelters thick plantations of seaweed

another view of the seaweed farms in Maziwa Ngombe

breathtaking shifting dunes in the South Channel, Pemba

a eutrophic tributary at West Pemba near Fondu island

To go: Pemba is a large island north of Zanzibar, a semi-autonomous archipelago that is part of Tanzania, East Africa. There are regular fast crafts and flights between Zanzibar and Pemba. Air charters can be arranged from various operators like the one we made with Tropical Air at +255 24 223 2511.

the Pemba aerial series:
(part 1 in colloidfarl.blogspot.com
part 2 in colloidfarl.blogspot.com
part 3 in colloidfarl.blogspot.com

the Cacing Diaries #42

2009-07-02T18:17:00.003+08:00

in Bali

It is now my 42nd My Cacing diary entry in my blog. The pictures I post in the blog – some of which I feature in flickr – are a celebration of life and joy with my daughter Cacing. They allow me to step back in time and feel what I felt then and more.

the flower girl smile, at Nusa Dua, Bali, Indonesia

cacing and the adenium behind her ears

the charmer in her gray dress at Nusa Dua, Bali

spreading some more cheers

the pixie, shopping at Kuta, Bali

car frolic

the cheerleader at Candi Dasa, Karangasem, Bali

windswept giddiness

crossing Uzi

2009-07-01T13:27:00.000+08:00

Uzi sounds exotic - reminds you of the gun, doesn’t it? –but for the regular visitor of Zanzibar, there isn’t much to see there. Sure, it has thick forests and the accompanying wildlife (mostly monkeys), lush mangroves and lonely beaches. There are also about 6000 people spread over three villages that are largely romanticized as Zanzibar before the age of mass tourism, which goes to say that things are spare if not backward in the island. Anthropology enthusiasts might visit Uzi. Or as in my case, people may just be looking for seaweed farms.

the “highway” to Uzi island

the causeway is carved through a mangrove forest

This second largest of the islands around Unguja holds a unique distinction though. By land, it can only be accessed via a causeway that is accessible during low tide. When the water comes up, the road disappears and you might as well travel by boat.

the channel water rising with the tide

Largely a project of the aid agencies, the causeway is a semi-paved clearing through the mangrove forest that separates Uzi and Unguja Ukuu of the main island of Unguju.

our reliable 4x4 ride

a bicycle crossing the causeway

In crossing the island several times I often worry if the wheels of our car will hold up. There are certainly no auto shops in the island and the only other way is to cross the rocky road would be by foot. The people of Uzi are used to these rough conditions; but what is mundane to them is still kind of exciting to me.

To go: Uzi is about 25 km southeast of Stonetown, Zanzibar, accessible by road only during low tide via a causeway at Unguja Ukuu.

Octopus for sale at Paje, Zanzibar

2009-06-30T14:14:00.000+08:00

One and a half US dollars. That’s the approximate beach price of a kilo of octopus in Zanzibar. I asked. The sale was done right on the blindingly white sandy shores of Paje, a district that is now crowded with tourist resorts and villas. I saw several fishermen with their prized catches of the day. Some chose to ignore the man with the bicycle and spring scale. Perhaps they have some other interested buyers in the village. I could not imagine them going to the big market in Stonetown which is about 50 kilometers away, not with just an octopus or two in tow.

fisherman with octopus, Paje, Zanzibar, Tanzania

fisherman haggling with the buyer at the beach of Paje

buyer weighs the octopus using a handheld spring scale

the sale is sealed with a smile

the buyer bags the octopus

Subsistence fishing is real in Zanzibar. With tidal surges of 3 meters, waters in the area are hospitable only a few hours certain day, half of the time in a month. Come full moon time, water recedes and the reef flat extends kilometers, allowing menfolk to fish with spears and nets. Otherwise, when the sea is high, men need boats which are capital-prohibitive.

the wide sandy expanse of Paje as seen from the shore

Paje, in another perspective, as seen from the reef

a fisherman dragging his catch

fisherman with spear

So others say that there’s always agriculture or city work but to a lot of these Zanzibaris, choices are slim. And the sea beckons.

man hopping around the beach looking for the best price

end of the day: going home

portraits from Lotim

2009-06-29T13:58:00.001+08:00

Lotim is a contraction of Lombok Timor which means East Lombok. It is the site of my frequent forays in Lombok for it is here that seaweed abounds. Production is healthy in this part of Indonesia thanks to a reef protected from strong winds and a steady ocean current action that facilitates nutrient circulation.

girl with a comb, Kaliantan

giggling girls in Kaliantan

man with bushels of seaweed, Kaliantan

Seaweed does have its season in Lombok. Heavy monsoon rains in December to March disrupts production in that drying of the wet harvests is interrupted frequently so farmers tend to lie low during this period. By May and onwards though, farmers get busy expanding production so by middle of the year, cultivation would already be in full swing.

woman sorting seaweed, Kaliantan

woman cleaning the seaweed harvest, Kaliantan

It is June now so perhaps I should pay Lombok a visit once more. Could be a good time to do more portraits too.

smiling at Serewe

woman spreading seaweed on the sand for drying, Serewe

Pemba from above, part 2

2009-06-28T21:01:00.002+08:00

continued from Pemba island from above part 1

Zanzibar, a semi-autonomous district in Tanzania is composed of 2 major islands, Unguja in the South and Pemba in the north. Unguja nowadays is almost exclusively referred to as the “Zanzibar” and is a world apart from Pemba. While Zanzibar is more densely populated and teeming with tourists, Pemba is desolate. Not that Pemba is lacking of natural attractions. Pemba has a greater number of islands, more expansive white sandy beaches and thicker forests. What it lacks sorely are infrastructure and facilities.

aerial view of the channel at Ngagu, Pemba island, Zanzibar, Tanzania, East Africa

Ngagu, in another perspective

Fondu and Western islands of Pemba

Pemba has two big “diving” resorts but they operate in rather remote areas that once there, you could not easily leave for lack of access to other points. When you go to Pemba on business, the logical places to stay would have to be either of the island’s 3 centers: Chake Chake which has the airport and the port towns of Mkoani and Wete. In these places, visitors only have a few guesthouses to choose from, and most offer only modest and with basic accommodations. Forget about cable TV, internet connectivity or room service. Save for these hostels, restaurants, at least the ones with waiting service and menus are basically absent too.

a seawater inlet in East Pemba that seems to have eutrophied with algae

dhows in the Kiungoni channel, Pemba

the tip of a reef in the South Channel, Pemba

But like most areas that are remote, the people are eager, friendly and accommodating. There are no commercial touts in the streets that are now plaguing Stonetown, the capital of Zanzibar. Villagers are a curious folk and they easily talk to visitors especially the small children who often don’t see people of a lighter skin.

an aerial of the northwest coast of Pemba

lush mangrove forest are common in the north

seaweed farms in Kiungoni

To go: Pemba is a large island north of Zanzibar, a semi-autonomous archipelago that is part of Tanzania, East Africa. There are regular fast crafts and flights between Zanzibar and Pemba. Air charters can be arranged from various operators like the one we made with Tropical Air at +255 24 223 2511.

the Cacing Diaries #41

2009-06-27T20:34:00.001+08:00

at Friday’s, Boracay, Aklan, the Philippines

The pictures here were taken only 6 weeks ago yet time seems to have stopped in slow motion. Cacing could just barely walk on her own and would only sprint short distances. Of course now, she is more confident in her abilities and is more like to insist on doing things her own way.

playing in the sand

backview

She recently went through a rough patch. She’s teething, growing a pair of incisors which are notoriously painful. Her appetite suffered for awhile and her bowels were loose. She even ran a temperature but only for a few days.

sitting in a red dress

playing waitress

She’s fine now. Every now and then she gets cranky. It was not easy giving her the necessary medicines as they were almost foul to the taste but she’s over the hump.

bringing the menu

studying the menu

Meantime, weather is stormy in the Philippines now. Not much sunshine. I bet she’s missing the beach as she smiles broadly every time she sees pictures of her in Boracay. We all miss the sun too.

digging sand

a place called Wingwi

2009-06-26T21:22:00.001+08:00

The view from the plane was compelling. Orderly lines of seaweed cultivars sprawl across hectares on the reef of Wingwi, right where the channel forks like a trident in the isthmus northeast of Pemba.

aerial view of the forked channel of Wingwi, Pemba, Zanzibar, Tanzania

dense seaweed farms fill the tidal flat of Wingwi

Just like Maziwa Ngombe, the road to Wingwi is exceedingly rough. How the seaweed gets trucked out of the village is clearly challenging but infrastructure in the outskirts of Pemba is poor.

a woman farmer watching us curiously as we passed by

arches of trees overrun by vine create a surreal background amidst the ricefield

Most of the seaweed farmers actually live in the village that are some distance away from the channel. It is normal fare for them to walk a few kilometers to get to their farm sites during the day but they still curiously choose to live away from the water banks.

a boy carrying the seaweed that he was able to dry for the day

a shelter for respite near the drying area of Wingwi

seaweed drying tables are fashioned from cultivated pine

Seaweed mariculture is a fairly recent enterprise. It was introduced in Pemba in large scale in the early 90s but it is only in the last 2 or 3 years that the industry saw a significant spurt in production. Conveniences like styropor-bottom boats, plastic floaters and bamboo rafts otherwise common in seaweed-growing countries like the Philippines and Indonesia are sorely missing in Pemba. Farmers generally don’t have capital nor do they have access to farm materials. In fact, to transport seaweed from farms to the drying areas, farmers still use traditional canoes called mtombwe that are dugout from century old mango trees.

these canoes cost about $500 each

a dock for mtombwe boats in Wingwi

Maziwa Ngombe up close

2009-06-25T23:19:00.001+08:00

Maziwa Ngombe. The name is hard to pronounce. Getting there too takes some patience. The village is accessible through a rough road that is best ridden in a 4x4. From above though, inside the comforts of the plane which we chartered from Unguja to Pemba, Maziwa Ngombe is a big producer of seaweed. The farms are dense and cover hectares of the white sandy tidal flat that gets exposed during low tide.

Maziwa Ngombe seaweed farms, as seen from above

farmers swarming over the reef during lowtide in Maziwa Ngombe

some take the opportunity to plant seaweed, others to harvest

harvest over her head

Seaweed farmers in Tanzania customarily work only during low tide. In high water, work becomes dangerous and boats are necessary. In low tide then which comes when the moon is full, the expansive reef can be traversed on foot and seaweed planting, tending and harvesting can easily be done. The rest of the photos tell the story.

it’s like seaweed fur around her

women of Maziwa Ngombe in colorful traditional kanga attire

women with their seaweed harvest, resting under the shade of the coralline crags

Maziwa Ngombe is dry and barren, with a few baobabs protruding over the flat landscapre

umbrella-like limestone outcrops mushroom over the tidal flat

a woman with her seaweed harvest by the stairs leading to the drying area

wooden boats are used in ferrying the harvested seaweed

typical harvest scene in Maziwa Ngombe

a splashing race

whiling the time away at the Chake Chake airport in Pemba

2009-06-24T21:49:00.002+08:00

By nature, airports are made for waiting. You queue to check in, sit out for the boarding call and endure whatever delays that eventually come your way. That is why, despite the sheer weight of my camera and lenses – I gather my shoulder bag must be at least 5kg heavy – I lug them all with me wherever I go.

Pemba fruit stall outside Chake Chake airport

for sale: roasted cashew

signboards of hotel choices just outside the airport

My stay in Chake Chake airport in Pemba was in reality brief. It was less than an hour in fact but watching time go by with my lens was an interesting observation of culture. Outside the airport, vendors of local mangoes that are known to be sweet and cheap were making brisk sales. Dala dala buses ferried the occasional passenger.

a public dala dala bus from China

The minaret is a giveaway for the mosque that is otherwise heralded as “Africa Muslims Agency”

Inside the airport, nothing much transpires either. The waiting room is the typical open-air hall seen in many small airports in Africa. There is a cafeteria selling the prerequisite soda (all Coke products in various forms), smokes and nibbles. Access outside, into the runway, is easy. The small gate is unguarded and no one stops you if you wanted to take a breather. I wasn’t the first one who took the opportunity to roam outside. Was not the last one either.

the solitary waiting lounge of Chake Chake airport

the runway view, as seen from the waiting lounge

the Zan Air plane that was to be our ride to Zanzibar

detail of the stairs that lead to the airport roof deck

To go: Chake Chake is the de facto capital of Pemba Island and it is where the local airport is.

chasing sunset in Mtoni, Zanzibar

2009-06-23T22:45:00.001+08:00

I didn’t go to Africa for a safari, a vacation or for anything remotely close to leisure. The trip was a business call and the schedule was heavily structured: a night in Dar, 2 nights each in Pemba and Unguja islands and one final stayover in Dar. We always were in a hurry, maximizing time on the beach during the 3 hour low tide period in the morning, squeezing the most number of villages in a single trip and on occasion skipping meals in favor of work.

the blue hour in an isolated beach in Mtoni

the lap pool of Mtoni Marine right after sunset

Before the trip, I had all the intentions to do some photography and even brought a tripod. While I did use my camera in our visits to the seaweed farms, the tripod almost did not see any action. Finally, in our last day in Zanzibar, we got a couple of hours of free time. It was sundown too and fortunately for me, we were staying in Mtoni Marine Centre whose beach faces the west. Sunset and twilight shots were never far away then.

beach huts in Mtoni Marine at dusk

Mtoni Marine is flanked in the south by lush mangroves

Mtoni Marine is an Italian-owned boutique resort, with Omani-inspired architecture. Think of ogees, solid and thick Romanesque walls, recessed alcoves and clean uncluttered walls. Rates were not bad either. Basic accommodation starts at about $65 and at this reasonable rate, we got a canopied queen-sized bed, a rather surprisingly large shower room and toilet, a personal safe, and best of all, a balcony facing the sea.

ready for a romantic rendezvous for two

the open lobby features locally cultivated pine lumber

Although there are no internet connections in the rooms, wi-fi and broadband cable line are available in the lobby. The main restaurant was under renovation this June but the resort made best use of its existing rugby sports bar and its beach front as an alternative dining place. The bar actually is popular in Zanzibar and is frequented by a lot of Europeans and South Africans.

coconut rule: the roof has to give way to an old coconut

a resort attendant picking up flowers for tabletop decoration

As can be seen in the pictures, the resort offers a white sandy beach appointed with the necessary cottages and water sports facilities. A lap pool overlooks the waters. If these were not attractive enough, the resort also caters to families traveling together. Its self-contained 2-storey apartments have a couple of bedrooms and a kitchenette. I would not mind coming back here someday, with family in tow.

the architecture of the Mtoni lodges is classical Omani-Arabic

function and form: canopy nets keep mosquitoes out. Malaria is common in East Africa.

To go: Mtoni Marine Center is some 4 km from Stonetown and is right beside the ruins of the Mtoni Palace.

the Darajani Market of Stonetown, Zanzibar

2009-06-22T18:47:00.001+08:00

The Darajani Market in Stonetown, Zanzibar is historical. It is located a stone’s throw from the city’s biggest market of another kind, that which traded slaves. Darajani however was opened in 1904, a quarter of a century since slave markets were outlawed in 1873.

a fresh fruit stall in Darajani Market, Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania

squid and octopus for sale

Today, the market looks unassuming and humble. Blocks of soft gray stones still form the solid façade. The roof is comprised of GI sheets that are partially rusted. A finial sticks out at the roof’s highest peak which from a distance, almost makes the market resemble a church.

the stone façade of Darajani

vegetables being sold in front of the market

a Masai man passing through

Inside, the market is divided into four sections. There is quarter for seafood, from the popular octopus to crabs and fishes of various sizes. The walls are as red with blood as the floor is dark with hardened muck. One room is used for auction, which take place early in the morning.

fillet of fish on display

the fish section of the market

a room used for the fish auction

Another hall is for meat, primarily beef. Butchered blocks are displayed everywhere here, and carcasses are left hanging on hook for easy perusal. Zanzibar is predominantly Muslim so pork is virtually forbidden in Darajani (they say you have to go Christian mission for that).

beef slices for sale

the beef market

Outside of the main building, stalls shaded by plastic tarps offer fruits, vegetables and spices. In another section is poultry. In the periphery, and deeper into the town are more stores and buildings that offer dry goods, from clothings to shoes and even jewelry.

fresh local produce like bananas

a selection of fruit

eggplants and chilies provide a clash of colors

Amidst the cacophony of sales negotiations and the din of clanging buckets, the market moves in a chaotic rhythm of its own. A hubbub of life swirls inside. As tourists click and jostle for that snapshot of local color, locals imperturbably go by their own way. As a Filipino, I’m used to this. The stench, the mud, the noise are a reminder of home, in a good and oddly ,assuring way.

packets of spices catering to the tourists

To go: Daranjani Market is in Creek Road, north of New Mkunazini St., Stone Town, Zanzibar. It is near the Anglican Cathedral.

the port of Mkoani, Pemba

2009-06-21T20:43:00.001+08:00

Air transportation is expensive in Pemba. It takes about $100 to buy a ticket from Unguja (Zanzibar) to Chake Chake, Pemba’s unofficial capital. An alternative is to use the daily fast craft that is serviced by the port of Mkoani. Cost is less than $30 I hear and three hours isn’t really that long. The most inexpensive option is the regular ferry that plies the Wete (Northwest Pemba)-Stonetown route which is more like an overnight crossing.

an aerial view of the town of Mkoani

the port from above

The main sea port of Mkoani is well built and solid. It can even take in international containers if only its facilities would be refurbished. There are plans in upgrading the port but this may take time as politics in Zanzibar are muddled.

the port

the port’s crane can only lift 5 tons or so

As a town, Mkoani moves slow in pace. With little more than 10,000 people, it still is a largely agricultural community, with the occasional demand for government-related work. There seems to be some support from the international community though. A complex of shoebox-type building exists which probably is a donation from East Germany in the 60s or 70s. The Chinese also have made its presence felt by sending in doctors for the local hospital. Multinational NGOs also drop by Pemba regularly.

a couple of young boys whiling their time by fishing at Mkoani port

wooden dhows which depend on wind power are still used for local fishing

Perhaps time would be kind to Pemba and modernity might just be around the bend. Meantime, clove plantations will still stand, fishing grounds will remain untapped and the white beaches will be as virgin as they still are now.

a lone group of boys with grilled octopus, squid and fish waiting for some sales just outside the port

transportation by donkey carts is still common in Pemba

To go: Mkoani is in west Pemba, Zanzibar, Tanzania, accessible by fast craft from the Stonetown harbor in Unguja (Zanzibar).

beyond the beach of Matemwe, Zanzibar

2009-06-19T21:58:00.005+08:00

Beyond the wide and white beach of Matemwe in Unguja Island (Zanzibar) is a string of villages not unlike many others in the northeast – they depend on the sea for a living. An obvious and ready work is fishing. The coastline, undeniably, sits on a healthy reef, renowned for snorkeling and diving, and boasts of a teeming population of fish, octopus and shells.

exceedingly tall coconut trees always seem to swirl all over the beach

the tidal flat of Matemwe stretches about half a kilometer into the sea

Nowadays though, seaweed farming is becoming predominant, and majority of the several thousands of families in the area are engaged in this form of marine agriculture.

For lack of space, hang-drying is the preferred mode of desiccation of cultivated seaweed

a seaweed “gate” leads you towards the beach

I was able to visit this place four years ago and I noticed a perceptible alleviation of overall standards in Matemwe. There are now more stone houses instead of temporary ramshackle dwellings. Some of the roofs are now in corrugated GI sheets although woven coconut leaf roofs are still common.

a traditional stone house uses limestone held together by a mixture of mud and clay

a heavily carved "Zanzibar" door in a warehouse in Matemwe

Fortunately, the increase of population in Matemwe comes with better public facilities. Water now runs in public taps provided for by the government. Local mosques have also sprung up and these were all community-built and financed by a pool of fund collected from local taxes.

note the dark kohl around the eyes of the crying girl (she was afraid of us, strangers!)

And where there is a visually endless stretch of powdery white, fine grain sand, there would be the resorts. I count at least eight of them in the map. There could definitely be more in the future.

souvenir hunting in the Mwenge Crafts Market, Dar es Salaam

2009-06-17T22:13:00.001+08:00

Only have a few hours in Dar es Salaam and need to buy some souvenirs? Hop on a taxi or a dala dala bus and head to Dar’s biggest crafts market in Mwenge.

Even if you don’t know Swahili, English is widely spoken by the vendors. The range of artwork represents what is native to Tanzania or even Kenya, from beadwork jewelry to wood carvings, Tinga Tinga paintings and local fabrics. As in any arts market, goods can be had cheap if you know how to bargain. As a rule of thumb, sellers usually jack up the prices by as much as 4x so start by offering a quarter of the original quote. If you like one item, don’t express too much interest. It helps too to back off and say no as typically, vendors will chase you with a lower bid. Check other stalls to compare prices.

Mwenge sits along a major highway in Dar

The market has a large quadrangle in the center which makes browsing easy

The selection is immense and it can work to your advantage. Take time to acquaint yourself with what are in store. Move around. You can always come back to haggle on items you really fancy.

The paintings are copies of art styles popularized by renowned painters like Tinga Tinga

It is not uncommon to see natives like this Masai man in the market

Tanzania shirts come in African “batik” that often uses the tie dye technique

It was my second time to visit Mwenge and like before, it was late afternoon. As the market closes at sundown, shopowners are in a hurry too to get some last day sale so this can work to your advantage. Wear a smile and enjoy.

A carver busy at work. I bought a 7”x14” ebony bowl that is carved out from one block of wood for $15. Original offer was about $34. I bought a similar one last 2005 at less than $10

I bought this Masai shuka fabric for about $7.5

To go: The Mwenge Crafts Market is in Sam Nujoma Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. The complex is near the University of Dar es Salaam and cannot be missed. Unfortunately, during rush hour, traffic around the area can be horrendous.

the women farmers of Pemba, part 1

2009-06-16T23:10:00.001+08:00

the farms of Mjini Kiuyu

Seaweed farming is a gender equalizing employer. When the commercial cultivation of seaweed on the beaches of Zanzibar was first introduced in the early 90s, it was viewed as effeminate work. Men fish, build roads, carve out stone blocks, or work in hotels– activities that bring money on a daily or weekly basis – they do not tie seedlings on ropes, tend them and wait for a month and a half to earn an income. While they can probably earn more in traditional fishing, seaweed farming has, over the years been demonstrated to be more steady, reliable and not prone to the vagaries of weather, season or tourism trends.

woman farmer in pensive mood

peeking through her kanga

Slowly, over more than 15 years, the profile of seaweed farmers in Zanzibar is slowly changing. Men are progressively joining the fray and in some places, villages as a whole participate in the mariculture of seaweed that is sold dry to exporters to carrageenan manufacturers in the US, Denmark, France and on a smaller scale to Spain, China and Vietnam.

she almost floated on water

woman with plastic boat

pulling her harvest

Often cited as a form of empowerment of women, seaweed farming allows women to earn money for the family on a regular basis, and increasingly in the coastal communities where seaweed can grow productively and efficiently, their earnings can even exceed what the men can bring. Because seaweed cultivation is only customarily conducted during low tide – which in equatorial Africa meant only some 14 days a month when the moon is high and full – traditional female roles of child rearing and keeping the house are not necessarily neglected.

working in threes

sitting and smiling

woman in blue

To go: Mjini Kiuyu is a village in Eastern Pemba, in the tidal flat inside Adamson Bay. It is about 1 ½ hours by road from Chake Chake, the capital of Pemba Island, Zanzibar, Tanzania

colors in the Joburg airport

2009-06-15T21:16:00.000+08:00

Passing through the Joburg airport is always fun. I get a kick in browsing through the different tribal arts in display in the duty free shops, from beadwork jewelry to yarn needlework tapestries to carvings.

the Out of Africa duty free shop showcases a giant Nelson Mandela statue

a closer look of the 7 foot Mandela- all done in beads!

I have not gone out in Johannesburg although I was able to stay in Capetown for a week way back in 2001. Too bad that Filipinos need a visa to get inside the country so we opted not to get out of immigration and just spent the few extra hours inside the OR Tambo airport.

South African tribal dolls are popular souvenirs

a trio of colorful dolls

In between some crucial work I needed to finish in my notebook and relaxing, I had an enjoyable time with my camera.

a tapestry at the South African Air Baobab lounge features panels of yarn needlework

one section of the tapestry depicts drinking

another features what seems to be an arrest of a colored man by white officers: a political statement?

Pemba from above, part 1

2009-06-14T22:14:00.001+08:00

The dark clouds hanging over the airport worried us. The forecasts in the internet were not good, with chances of precipitation over Zanzibar estimated in the high 80% range. Our schedules did not allow us great flexibility though and moving our aerial survey to some other day was not an option. June was not supposed to be wet but weather in Africa, as in most parts of the world, is unpredictable and the May rains have been lingering in Tanzania up to the present time.

shifting sand bars in the south channel of Pemba island, Zanzibar, Tanzania, East Africa

seaweed farms in Kangani, south of Pemba island

The pilot assured us that rains come in patches but generally, most of Zanzibar would still be dry. The timing already was perfect- it was low tide that mid-morning and we should be able to see clearly the seaweed farms that we would be inspecting. Without much discussion, we decided to go ahead. All five of us needed to go to Pemba anyway and the air charter meant just paying for the entire 12 seats of the Cessna 208B grand caravan.

an isolated beach in one of the many islets in South Pemba

a shallow reef where two channels meet, South Pemba

To our delight, the drizzle went away upon our takeoff at 9AM and the sun came out. While clouds still hang low over most of our trip, the sun did not disappoint and we were treated with the glory that is Zanzibar.

a shoal that appears only during low tide, South Pemba

seaweed farms at the banks of the village of Chokocho, South Pemba

To go: Pemba is a large island north of Zanzibar, a semi-autonomous archipelago that is part of Tanzania, East Africa. There are regular fast crafts and flights between Zanzibar and Pemba. Air charters can be arranged from various operators like the one we made with Tropical Air at +255 24 223 2511.

back from Tanzania

2009-06-13T19:02:00.005+08:00

Wasn’t it just almost 4 years ago that I was last in Tanzania? Seems like a different lifetime ago. So I spent a week, in Dar es Salaam, the nation’s capital) and the two big islands of Unguja and Pemba in Zanzibar. There was not much downtime as business took precedence, which fortunately did not preclude some photography. As I am trying to ease back into regular life here in Cebu, I would bit by bit post some of these photographs online.

the council of elders at the village of Kidoti, Unguja (Zanzibar), Tanzania

the Cacing Diaries #40

2009-06-05T13:44:00.000+08:00

at Tanah Lot, Tabanan, Bali

Today, I am leaving for a week-long business trip to Africa so I want to have a photo of my family in my flickr frontpage.

This photograph of my wife, my mom, my mother-in-law and my daughter Cacing was taken a couple of months ago in Bali (that is the temple of Tanah Lot in the background).

I probably won’t be able to linger long in flickr or even blog in the next seven days. I’ve been delinquent lately as my brother and my sister are also here in Cebu so the term busy is an understatement. Now that I will be away, I’ll be missing the most my family. But I will be back.

Cacing, her Pooh and good friend Ketut at Tanah Lot

Cacing with Mama Pingping, my mother-in-law

me and Cacing

Chua Phuoc Hai Tu- pagoda-hopping in Vietnam part 4

2009-05-30T00:18:00.001+08:00

It is a temple of numerous names. The most popular is the Jade Emperor Pagoda but it is also referred to as Chua Phuoc Hai Tu (Chua is the Vietnamese term for temple), the Fuhai Monastery or even as the Tortoise Pagoda.

a fountain sits in the front yard of Chua Phuoc Hai Tu, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

Not surprisingly, the central court features the prominent figure of the Jade Emperor. Flanking him are other Taoist deities made of papier-mâché. Traditional decorations fill the hall, including beautiful inscriptions in Chinese that are as old as the temple which was constructed in the early 1900s. Elaborate carvings filled the other side hall which curiously, depicted visions of hell.

the carved wooden door of Chua Phuoc Hai Tu

I did remember my friend telling me that the temple is Vietnamese and not Chinese. This somehow confused me as all the pagodas I went to, from Thien Hau, Tam Son Hoi Quan and Chua Ong, were Buddhist or Taoist and are definitely Chinese in design and origin. Perhaps he meant that the temple is maintained or managed by ethnic Vietnamese and not by Chinese immigrants.

a conical incense coil inside the temple

a medallion as offering

It was my second time to visit this temple. As in my past, the pagoda was teeming with not just tourists like myself but also with the faithful who brought with them incense, food and other offerings. I tried not to get in the way and observed silently with my camera.

Chua Phuoc Hai Tu worship

To go:
Jade Emperor Pagoda aka Chua Phuoc Hai Tu and Fuhai Monastery
73D Mai Thi Luu, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

For more of my pagoda-hop series in Vietnam, visit:
part 1: Thien Hau
part 2:Tam Son Hoi Quan
part 3:Chua Ong

the Cacing Diaries #39

2009-05-28T22:16:00.000+08:00

at Tirta Gangga, the royal pools of Karangasem

Cacing is almost 1 year 4 months now and she now can walk confidently. Once she learned how a few weeks ago, she progressed fast as kids her age are wont to do. Soon enough she’d be running and we really would be on our wit’s end.

Cacing with my good friend Ketut at Tirta Gangga’s 11-tier fountain

Her eating habits are still that of a fickle hummingbird, nibbling here and there. Her curiosity always the gets the best of her so she’d try anything. What she likes she’ll savor. What she doesn’t she’ll spit out.

Cacing enjoying her walk with Dia on the bridge

bridges are perfect for practice walk

While she doesn’t have the command of oral communication yet –her speech, while seemingly not random, is still unintelligible – Cacing’s level of comprehension appears high. She loves running small errands, bringing a doll for her mom, or even a pen to me.

Mommy waving from one end of the Mahabharata pond

Mommy, posing on the stepping stones of Mahabharata pond

They say it is natural for kids her age to ape everyone around her. She has a liking to the broom and she got that from our housekeeper. She also likes to dust off furniture with any piece of cloth. At home, she likes to comb our hair, feed us with a drinking bottle, rub us lotion or even massage us with her hands.

Cacing and company posing at the bridge over Deman Island

Mommy’s turn to pose on her own

And did I mention that she sheds crocodile tears already? She’d pretend to get upset when she doesn’t get her way and engage us in a battle of wills. And when she’d realize that she has made a mistake and get us angry, she’d sit still and then approach and kiss us on the lips.

Cacing, finding the spring refreshingly cool

Cacing with Ketut at the Mahabharata pond

How can we get mad? In the battle of manipulations and persuasions, there is one clear winner. Need I to tell who?

my wife Dia leading the gang at Tirta Gangga

Boracay and Willy’s Rock

2009-05-27T19:23:00.000+08:00

It’s strange, incongruous and you have to admit it, almost downright ugly. But for the fact that the rock is just the only mass dotting the almost 4 kilometer world famous White Beach, Willy’s Rock is instantly recognizable.

a blue silhouette of Willy’s Rock at late afternoon

north face of Willy’s Rock

Obviously, it has to be the most photographed natural landmark in Boracay. By default let me add. Still, it is curious how the elements sculpted the volcanic outcrop in odd and mismatched forms. Today, it has a Marian grotto at one end.

sunset rendezvous by the Willy’s Rock is popular

To go: Willy’s Rock is right across Station 1 of White Beach, Boracay Island. It is accessible by foot during low tide.

a classical Willy’s Rock postcard shot

5 things I learned about skimboarding

2009-05-26T22:21:00.002+08:00

I don’t skimboard. Let me get that straight.

a sunset panorama with skimboarding boys in the background at Station 1, White Beach, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan, the Philippines

A long time ago, way back when I was stationed in Bali, I fancy myself that I’d learn to surf or at the very least, to skim, but I never did create the time to study it. Today, my body simply might not just hold up to the rigors of the sport.

boys with skimboards at White Beach, Boracay

I’m more now of a spectator, or better still, of a photographer of people who can. There are several things about skimboarding though that I found interesting. Learning trivia never hurts.

1. A skimboarding is sort of little surfboard that is used to ride on an incoming wave.

2. Surfing begins in the waters, often in the deep right where the surf breaks, but skimboarding starts on the beach, by “skimming” out to breaking waves and then riding them back to shore.

3. Skimboards, whether of the oval or teardrop shape, are basically shorter than surfboards, and when stood on end, can reach only up to the midchest.

4. Skimboarding is not limited in beaches as it can be done in lakes, rivers, puddles, or even wet grass.

5. Skimboarding can be done even in shark-infested beaches as skimmers can ride waves near the sand where waters are too shallow for sharks to enter.

beyond Boracay- the Caluya islands, part 1

2009-05-25T23:26:00.002+08:00

For a region so blessed with some of the best beaches in the Philippines, Western Visayas has an enviable northwestern arc from Aklan to Antique which is spoilt for choice when it comes to tourism. The headliner undoubtedly is Boracay island in Malay, Aklan which is frequently mentioned as one of the best beaches in the world. However, further west is a group of islands which boasts of the same fine sandy beaches and rugged forested terrain that have potential for development. This group of island is Caluya.

the beach of barangay Imba, Caluya island, Antique, Western Visayas, the Philippines

a glimpse of the seaweed farms on the reef of Caluya

Sibato, Sigay, Panagatan, Semirara, Sibolon, Dinago and of course Caluya, are the major islands of Caluya. Politically belonging to the province of Antique, Caluya has a total population of around 25,000.

long lines of styropor floaters being cleaned along the coast of Imba, Caluya Island

empty seaweed-farming lines being readied for seedling tying

Of late, it is probably Semirara which has gained some name recall, specifically as a rich source of coal. Notwithstanding this recent rise, coal mining is not the main industry of the Caluya group of islands. Neither is it fishing although many would have assumed this to be the case as the network of islands is on a healthy and thriving reef. Agriculture would be the next easy guess. Close but not quite. The biggest “employer” actually is seaweed.

seaweed being hang-dried immediately after harvest

seaweed lines with floaters being cleaned along Imba coast

By most estimates, some 70 to 80% of the people in the Caluya group of islands are into seaweed farming, wherein seaweed of the cottonii variety is grown in long and extensive lines in the sea covering several hundreds of hectares. Such is the success of the industry that today, the islands for the last 15 years or so could harvest several hundreds of dry tons of the produce during summer season.

typical beach scene in Caluya Island

bamboo poles for hanging freshly harvested seaweed

As is becoming obvious by now, where there is seaweed, I need to go. Coincidentally, the most convenient route to these islands is the island of Boracay so business travel cannot be more welcome.

seaweed farmer carrying seaweed for planting

Coming up: Visiting the island

To go: Caluya is 4 hours by ferry from Libertad port of Antique, which is about 4 hours by bus from Iloilo. Other public jump off points are Pandan, Antique and San Jose, Mindoro Occidental. A convenient alternative is hiring a private boat from Boracay Island, which is some two hours away.

Tirta Gangga, the royal pools of Karangasem

2009-05-24T20:17:00.001+08:00

The eastern part of Bali does not see much tourist traffic. Visitors who only have a limited time in the island normally would concentrate their sightseeing in southern or central Bali where cultural and recreational attractions are densely packed.

the Mahabharata pond of Tirta Gangga, Rejasa, Karangasem, Bali, Indonesia

the South pond at the lower level of Tirta Gangga, Rejasa, Karangasem, Bali, Indonesia

fountain at Demon island overlooking the South pond

I myself am guilty of this oversight and my forays in the Karangasem mostly were up to Besakih or Tengenan only. This April though, I decided to take my family in a different detour and went further up to the regency.

panorama of the Mahabharata pond’s stepping stones

Mahabharata pool statue closeup

a statue bearing her teeth at the Mahabharata pool

The three hour drive from Nusa Dua practically worked for us as our one year old daughter had the penchant of taking a nap inside a moving car. The destination I plotted was the royal fountains of Tirta Gangga.

Dia and Mommy hopping over the stepping stones

Literally meaning “holy water from Ganges”, Tirta Gangga is the summer garden of Bali’s last king of Karangasem. Spreading over a little more than one hectare in Rejasa some 5km south of Amlapura, it was built in 1947 by the rajah who as a budding architect, got inspired by his visit in the gardens of Versailles, France.

the bridge over the South pond, leading to the Demon island

Carved at the foot of Gunung Agung, the garden is laid out on 3 levels. One enters the lowest level first in the east. On the left is the South pond, the biggest pool. It is bisected by a longitundinal patch called Demon island which boasts of a series of flower-shapped fountains. On the right is the Mahabharata pond which is popular for its “floating” stepping stones that allow people to hop around the water. There are also several stone sculptures that depict characters of the Indian epic from which the pool got its name. In the middle level is what is mostly recognized as the architectural centerpiece of Tirta Gangga- a beautiful eleven-tiered fountain called Nawa Sanga which resembles a lotus and is Victorian in style. In the highest northern level lies the holy spring under the banyan tree, a royal swimming pool and two more ponds.

the Victorian lotus-style 11-tier Nawa Sanga fountain

the Demon island as seen from the bridge

Tirta Gangga by local folklore, is Bali’s Fountain of Youth. Legend says that if one bathes in these waters on full moon one will be blessed with youth and be cured from illnesses. Regardless of belief, these are the same waters that run through and irrigate the adjacent ricefields which Karangasem is famous for. Myth or not, the royal pools remains the source of life, forever flowing, forever refreshing.

Pasar Badung, part 2

2009-05-23T22:34:00.001+08:00

To conclude Pasar Badung, part 1, here are more pics of the biggest flower market in Bali.

a sleepy vendor tending a flower stall in Pasar Badung, Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia

mussaenda flowers for sale

In between, I’m sharing a lesson in language which I learned when I was studying Bahasa Indonesia on my own 16 years ago.

vendors selling canang offerings

an old lady selling flowers in Pasar Badung

Then, I discovered the intertwining relationship of dialects in Southeast Asia. Take the case of the Indonesian word for flower which is bunga. I always confused bunga with buah (pronounced bu-wa) which means fruit. You see, in Cebuano, fruit is bunga while flower is buwak. Somewhere, sometime, during the centuries of direct contact between the archipelagos that are now the Philippines and Indonesia, words jumbled and blended.

baskets of exotic fragrant flowers

varieties of Lombok peppers that are also on display in the flower market

Somehow, it doesn’t really matter much. The flower and the fruit are interchangeable in a biological sense, both being bearers of progeny of the plant. First, the flower blooms, withers and ultimately becomes the fruit. One can’t be without the other. You might as well mix them up.

petals of pink and red roses that are sold for Balinese offerings

all abloom in the flower market of Antananarivo

2009-05-22T18:01:00.001+08:00

It’s a given- tropical flowers are a riot of colors. A visit to the flower market would be enough confirmation of this reality. But the heat can be too oppressive and some species are better suited to the moderately cool temperatures afforded by the mountains. It’s no surprise then that the more famous flower markets are always in the highlands. Think of Busay in Cebu, Baguio in Luzon and Bedugul in Bali.

flowers for delivery

a kaleidoscope of colors

more helicornias, roses, anthuriums

Think then Madagascar, a country famous for its relative isolation and unparalleled diversity. Add to this predisposition the fact that its capital, Antananarivo or Tana sits on a high plateau ranging between 1200-1400 meters above sea level, and peaking above 2,600 meters.

girl playing with a flower

lilies on the go

buyers selecting the best blooms

A place not to be missed then is the flower market of Tana located at the edge of Lake Anosy. The range is spectacular, from the easily recognizable roses, chrysanthemums and lilies to the wilder helicornia, anthuriums, gladiolas and orchids.

a typical flower stall

vendor selling papayas and mangoes

The pulse of the city is the market and this one in Anosy throbs with the energy of a teeming and vibrant people who love life. An obvious piece of advice: visit early morning when the blooms are freshly picked and simply unblemished.

a full display

prepping some bouquet

wild colors

the Cacing Diaries #38

2009-05-21T21:36:00.004+08:00

going spicy and fishy in Klungkung, Bali

Cacing is slowly getting attuned to spice. It’s an unavoidable indoctrination given that my wife are way above mere tolerant of the heat of pepper. For sure, Cacing still can’t take hot dishes but she sure likes playing with them for now.

Dia fixing Cacing’s hair

Cacing in full radiant mode

Cacing playing with her spoon

The scene of the crime here was the unassuming eatery in Klungkung called Warung Merta Sari. It was the week before Holy Week so we were looking for a place that offers seafood (we abstained from eating meat during this time).

the plain façade of Warung Merta Sari

It was my second time to dine here and for lovers of spice and fish this is a place of note. The restaurant seems to be always teeming with eager Balinese looking for a warm and spicy meal. And always, it is the locals who know best.

a side dish of spicy string beans

sate lilit ikan or minced fish satay

peanuts as appetizers

rujak, a traditional fresh salad in sweetened vinegar (note the chilis!)

The specialty is sate lilit ikan or minced fish satay which comes with a bitingly spicy fish soup. The sate is prepared and grilled the traditional way over live charcoal fire. Aside from the complimentary peanuts and a few side orders like rujak or vegetables in season, there is little else on the menu. As they say, nothing can compete with the classic.

cooking the sate over hot coals

the grill line

Cacing and the rest of us all agree.

To go: Warung Merta Sari is in the village of Pesinggahan, Klungkung, after the new Bypass IB Mantra. It is located before the temple of Goa Lawah.

the warung is a favorite among Balinese especially those who pay homage to the Temple of Goa Lawah

an aside: across the eatery are these cages of fighting cocks which Cacing took a liking

Singapore’s Esplanade: a different kind of durian

2009-05-20T17:09:00.002+08:00

The comparison is inescapable. From a distance, Singapore’s Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay resembles a pair of durian, the fruit that is distinctive not just for its taste (buttery) and smell (noisome) but also for its thorns.

the Esplanade by the Singapore River

a closer look of one half of the Esplanade

Consciously conceived by Singapore as an edifice of world note, this center for cultural and arts shelters a concert hall, a theatre, studios, galleries, a public library and of course the inescapable mall.

the pair of thorny domes

the roofscape at daylight

The design has its share of critics. When officially opened in October 2002, the initial reception was mixed. The aluminum sunshades which cover the two domes elicited association with eyes of a giant fruit fly, two sliced microphones, a couple of cheese graters, fencing masks or even a pair of copulating aardvarks.

the “durian”’s metallic surface during sunset

Perhaps 7 years is not yet sufficient a time for the Esplanade to be indubitably acclaimed as a modern architectural wonder. But for anyone who has seen the Esplanade up close, it certainly is no eyesore anymore.

cleaning the thorns is never easy

the 60s, as frozen in the Reunification Palace of Saigon

2009-05-19T21:14:00.006+08:00

The images of the North Vietnamese tanks breaching the walls of the South Vietnamese presidential building made news worldwide in April 1975 and signified the end of the Vietnam War. This wartime headquarters, formerly referred to as the Independence Palace, is now officially known as the Reunification Palace which in the Vietnamese psyche, is a symbol of the Communist’s triumph over West in general and the US in particular.

The Reunification Palace features an 800 meter wide façade. The architect was Ngô Viết Thụ, renowned for his numerous international architectural awards.

a USSR-made T54 tank exactly like this drove through the palace gates in April 30, 1975

the palace’s rooftop is the helipad that saw scenes of escape during the days preceding the fall of Saigon

History is written by the victors and the triumphant “nationalist” forces wasted no time in preserving the Palace as they conquered it, perhaps to serve as an icon of the extravagant “imperialist collaborators” that is the South. Had it been the other way around, the West would be touting Vietnam as the poster child of democracy’s success and the edifice would not be stuck in a time rot that tourists can now witness, if not gawk. So gawk I did.

Several walls have murals painted showing Vietnamese ideals, as done by famous Vietnamese painters

stylized grills in the lower floor used Chinese-style cloud motifs

the palace sits on 12 hectares of land and is fronted by a spacious grass lawn

the Office of the President exemplifies the 60s kitsch

the plump leather chairs and the microphone system were top of the line when the Palace was rebuilt in 1966

old wartime maps recall strategic plans of the South against the North

the President’s International reception room is predominantly red

Newly assigned diplomats presented their credentials to the President in this room

the First Lady had her own reception room for visiting dignitaries

the movie theatre now smells musty and moldy

the radio equipment which saw action during the war

the formal banquet room could sit 22 people in one long rectangular table

the gambling and casino room is used as an example of the profligacy of the South

the seaweed farms of Tibungco, Davao City

2009-05-18T20:54:00.002+08:00

Visiting seaweed farms always shows me a slice of the lives of ordinary people at work. This is agriculture but not in land.

seaweed growing in the coast of Tibungco, Davao City

In Davao City, one of the fast-growing sources of the seaweed cottonii is the coastal community of Tibungco. Not surprisingly, the vast majority of the people doing seaweed cultivation are Muslim. This demography is repeated many times over all throughout Mindanao particularly in the regions of Zamboanga and Sulu where seaweed first became popular. Over the years when people move around and resettle, they naturally bring with them the skills that helped carry them over economically.

a group of stilt houses which we had to pass through to get to our boat

The take off point of this trip in Tibungco was Purok 16 Buhisan. A boat was pre-arranged to take us to the farms nearby and we had to pass through a small community of stilt houses. Traversing a labyrinth of footpaths of loose planks and bamboo never is easy but tripping over is not a option as I didn’t want to take a swim, especially when I have my dSLR camera with me.

a Tibungco farmer sitting in a farmhouse where seaweed are being dried

The boat ride was short and took us less than 10 minutes. Along the way, we zigzagged through long monolines of seaweed. The boatman was a farmer himself and was extra cautious not to cut or drag down any cultivation line.

weaving through a sea full of seaweed farmlines

The farmhouses, which serve as depots for farm materials, as drying platforms for the fresh harvests and as temporary dwellings, are mushrooming around the coast, our contact assured us. There was a recent incidence several hectares of seaweed plantations being bought out by a company which needed the area to build a private wharf. I forgot whether it was a fish canning firm or something else but the farmers are a persistent lot and they merely brushed off the setback and moved their lines to the neighboring waters.

a farmer tending his farm

farmhouses and boats are necessities in seaweed farming

It will take awhile to see the volume really take off but time is on everyone’s side. Meantime, I heard that the neighboring island Samal had some potential so I planned to head up there too. More places to visit mean more pictures to take. I am not complaining.

a Tibungco farmhouse with Samal Island at the background

Ukiran Bali- reaching artistic heights

2009-05-17T16:51:00.005+08:00

A cursory look may make one think that Indonesian wood CARVINGS are the same. They are not. Motifs vary from one place to the other and the level of skill is not the same among regions. For deep reliefs, the top carvers are in Bali, Cerebon (West Java) and Madura (East Java).

If I have to play favorites, I would gravitate towards Balinese ukiran or carving. Whether the piece is partial relief or full figure sculpture, Balinese carving is distinctive, intricate and stylized. Over the years, I have collected numerous panels and reliefs and obviously, I could not get enough.

Witnessing the carvers in motion is fascinating. Like art guilds in the past, these workshops offer a ready lesson of dedicated artisanship to those who are willing to stop and observe.

passing through Sibato

2009-05-16T21:47:00.001+08:00

Finally I was able to go to Caluya last week. I’ve been meaning to go there to check on their seaweed farms but never had the chance.

Caluya lies northwest of Panay and is a municipality of Antique. Appearing in the map as the Semirara Islands, Caluya is composed of several islands including Caluya, Sibato, Sigay, Panagatan and Semirara. The latter is notable for its coal pits which have given the municipality a high economic profile in the region. Caluya is the eponymous capital of the municipality. Sibato, sometimes referred to as Sibaton, is the smaller isle northeast of Caluya.

the islands of Caluya (background) and Sibato (foreground)

coconut trees lined the island of Sibato

My visit was short. Weather was a cause for worry as the the week before, a typhoon hit Luzon and waters were choppy. I was lucky though as the skies cooperated and it actually was sunny when I took the boat trip from Boracay to Caluya.

clear waters show how clean the reef is in Sibato

a local resort features a long and wide beach of fine white sand

With time a constraint, I was not able to go around the islands but I managed to pass through Sibato. Nothing much happens here it seems. The coast looks beautiful, with clean white sand and lined with coconuts. Idyllic, as tropical islands go.

the reef fronting Sibato is perfect for seaweed farming

the long lines with styropor floaters are where seaweed are grown

Most of the people in Sibato are farmers but not in the terrestrial agriculture that you would expect. What they plant is seaweed, farming them in long monolines on the reef. Upon reaching the required full maturity of 40 days, the seaweed lines are hung over poles for drying. The dried seaweed are then sorted, bagged and shipped to carrageenan factories in Cebu or Manila.

boats on dock on the beach of Sibato

Sibato, the island

They say that about 80% of the people in Caluya, including Sibato, are engaged in seaweed mariculture. And this shows in a short trip around the island and I like that. A lot.

freshly harvested seaweed are shown here being hang-dried on bamboo poles

To go: Sibato is only about 5 minutes crossing from the main island of Caluya, which is regularly serviced at least 5x/week by ferries to and from Libertad, Antique and San Jose, Mindoro Occidental. Alternatively, boats can be hired from Boracay (Malay, Aklan), which is 1.5-2 hours away.

same old, same old Puka Beach

2009-05-15T23:20:00.004+08:00

Obviously, I’ve stayed away from Boracay for far too long. The last time I was there was in the mid 90s and by the power of commerce, how Boracay has changed! Overrun, crowded, noisy, White Beach is unrecognizable. This is not to say that it is all for the worse.

geometries of Puka Beach

In particular, the three and a half kilometer stretch of White Beach, is a different world far removed from the typical Filipino experience, as if this were some island that operates outside of the country’s borders. Boring, no. Captivating, totally and sinfully so.

Puka beach lies in Yapak, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan

But up north, things can be calmer, quieter, saner. Somehow, by a twist of its distance and relative inaccessibility, the beach called Puka remains frozen in time. Gone are the high rise villas, the fastfood outlets and the water sport centers. There stands just one eatery, a few stalls selling seashell souvenirs – the name Puka is derived from the single-holed shell pieces strung together as necklaces that were the rage in the hippie 60s – and surprisingly, only a handful and less intrusive hawkers.

outrigger leaving the beach

Sure, you may still have to hire a boat (about P1,500-1,800 for 3-4 hours tour around the island) or rent a bike or trike to get there. The sand is also not as white nor as powdery. The waters may also be more tricky for the surf is rougher and the reef shallows are narrower.

boats docking on Puka

But the stillness and emptiness must be what White Beach was before, way back when tropical paradise needs no marketing. And Puka Beach remains that: blindingly clean sand, crystal blue waters, hot sun and little else.

the view southwards

To go: Boracay is easily reached from Manila or Cebu by air via the airports of Aklan or Caticlan (Malay, Aklan). Boat services from Caticlan to the Cagban port in Boracay are frequent, even in the evening.

a Cebu favorite- the Kawasan Falls, part 2

2009-05-07T22:30:00.000+08:00

continued from Kawasan Falls, part 1

Kawasan is a series of 10 or so waterfalls. In fact, before you get to the “first” major falls, you have shall pass at least two or three small drops and numerous brooks and streams. The “first” falls is spectacular. Easily the biggest and tallest at about 50 feet, it offers a broad and cavernous lagoon of cool and fresh river water. Cottages dot the easements, offering food, shelter and the popular bamboo raft that take you safely under the falls. (Don’t worry, life vests are provided).

Another 15 minutes of a rigorous climbing over narrow passageways and steep stairs between boulder-hewn canyons is the second major falls. Although not as tall or as voluminous, this second falls is really not just one but two waterfalls feeding into a deep and inviting pool. The embankments here are also a lot wider and more spacious that the first so there are more cottages more comfy for overnighters.

a minor falls right before the first major falls

For the more adventurous set, another reward waits if you went further upstream. The trail zigzags over trickier tributaries and darker overgrowths. At the end of perhaps a 30 minutes of brisk trekking is a wall of concrete dam with a voluminous cascade, which probably is operated by the small hydroelectric plant downstream.

the first major waterfalls of Kawasan

There were stories in the 80s of communist rebels operating in the border of Badian and Alegria so venturing beyond the mountains was discouraged. Today though, the New People’s Army threat is already gone but it still is advisable to get a local guide as going under the dam is difficult and circuitous. The Matutinao river system after all is 18 kilometer long and getting to the source in the Alegria mountains is an arduous journey but definitely, no less rewarding.

the second major falls

getting the falls without the people is difficult during weekends

To go: Badian is about 90 km south from Cebu City via the southwest Carcar-Barili highway. The Kawasan Falls is in Matutinao, which is marked by a modern church of the same name.

a stream feeding into the second major falls

Hong Kong icons in black and white

2009-05-06T20:59:00.000+08:00

Mushrooming as if concrete and steel were organic on land, the skyscrapers of Hong Kong are in a density and vertical elevation difficult to match in Asia. In Hong Kong central alone, the public can rubberneck no end.

the skyscrapers of Hong Kong Central, as viewed form Chater Park, Hong Kong, China

The statistics speak for themselves. In the list of the 100 tallest building in the world, the metropolis of 7 million people can boast of 11, versus Shanghai (10) and New York (8).

the instantly recognizeable Bank of China Tower which is about 367m (1,205 ft) tall

In another survey, Hong Kong has 43 buildings over 200 metres tall, 30 of which only rose in the last 10 years.

2IFC or Two International Finance Centre, Hong Kong is 415 m or 1,362 ft 88 tall

With so many highrises, the city skyline then is spectacular at any day or time, whether in color or in black and white.

The Road to Bromo, part 4

2009-05-05T23:01:00.000+08:00

the horsemen of Tengger

continued from The Road to Bromo
part 1
part 2
part 3

The Caldera of Tengger is a wonder to behold. Sitting 2,000 meters above sea level, it is a cauldron of fine volcanic from which numerous peaks rose, the most famous of which is Bromo.

Around this basin are pockets of communities which still subscribe to the old Hindu-Javanese religion. These highlands after all became the Hindus’ refuge during the ascendancy of Islamic rule in the 15th century. Today, this indigenous group of Tengger still practice a religion that is a mixture of Javanese animism, Buddhism and Hinduism, with some influence from Islam.

The people are a hardy lot, being used to the demands of living and working in such a high elevation. The main livelihood is agriculture (vegetable, fruits) although tourism is fast developing employment sector.

The men folk are known for their equestrian skill. While their native horses are small and look more like ponies, the Tengger horsemen are industrious, waking up in the early hours of dawn, to tend farms and pasture. Just before sunrise breaks, they generally would gravitate towards the caldera, offering their horses for as little as $5 dollars for the 3 kilometer ride to the brim of Bromo.

While the Tenggers are pretty much known for their tolerance and acceptance of strangers, they still generally keep to themselves. Their sense of pride is so strong that they generally resist attempts to part with their land even when the bids are high.

Their land is Tengger and they like to keep it that way.

why I need to go back to Guimaras

2009-05-04T23:31:00.001+08:00

The limited day I was in Guimaras was a teaser. With just under 24 hours in the island province to finish some business, how could I squeeze some time for a tour?

century-old mangroves at Inampulugan island, southeast of Guimaras

The answer is I couldn’t. The good thing is when coming from Iloilo, the fastest route to Guimaras is to catch the 15-minute boat ride between the ports of Ortiz in Iloilo City and Jordan which is in the northwest of Guimaras. Getting to our destination of Sibunag in the southeastern end therefore meant traversing the hypotenuse of island.

the highway out of the Jordan port got deluged by heavy rains and the high tide

The road trip took about 2 hours but the rains poured down heavily. From the little that I and my companions could see through our covered-up jeepney which we rented, Guimaras is largely agricultural. Large tracts of land are devoted to rice, coconut, mango, vegetables, livestock and poultry.

a view of Kanlaon volcano of Negros Occidental, as seen from Inampulugan Island

By 3PM, we were done with work. Next stop was Inampulugan Island’s Costa Aguada Resort where we elected to stay overnight. Again, the choice was logical as we needed to check the seaweed plantations along the coast.

the coast of Sabang, Sibunag

Early the next morning, we retraced our route and hopped on a boat and rode the same jeepney back to Jordan. Too bad we did not have much time anymore and we had to miss the one thing I would have loved to photograph, the 17th century Navales Church in Buenavista at the north.

a display of spices at the public market of San Miguel, Jordan

However, when all things fail to align, we still accomplished that thing that matter most: buy our pasalubong (giveaway gifts). At Jordan, a convenient detour is the Trappist Monastery, an enclave run by monks of the Cistercian Order of the Strict Observance. Their souvenir items are quite reputable and we came home with jellies, jams and candies like the yema, tarts and piyaya.

a stained glass window of the OLP Trappist Monastery

And of course, we could not leave without the famed mangoes of Guimaras. I’m not about to dampen or bolster Guimaras’ claim over my favored Cebu mangoes but honestly, the Guimaras mangoes are as tender, as sweet and redolent as the best Guadalupe mangoes of Cebu. However, they do get extra points for consistency as they strictly search and dispose of any non-Guimaras mangoes at the ports. I have to give it to Guimaras for keeping the strain of mangoes “pure” and undiluted with errant varieties.

mangoes for sale at San Miguel Market, Jordan

Soon: Guimaras’ Inampulugan Island

a Bali favorite- Tanah Lot, part 2

2009-05-03T22:01:00.001+08:00

continued from Tanah Lot, a Bali favorite (part 1)

The famous temple of Tanah Lot is one of seven sea temples that by popular myth was built around southwest Bali within eyesight of the each other. Of all seven, Tanah Lot is one of the most frequented by the Hindu faithful. And most certainly, Tanah Lot is the most popular to outsiders, thanks to its spectacular location.

the entrance of the beach where Tanah Lot is

Because of its limited space for such an important role in Hindu cosmology and observances, Tanah Lot has several other temples that serve as functional adjuncts. These include the temples of Penataran, Penyawang, Jero Kandang, Enjung Galuh, Batu Bolong, Batu Mejan Temple and Pakendungan.

blessings in the Pakendungan Temple in front of Tanah Lot

In my visit early this April, the temple anniversary of Tanah Lot was celebrated for a spand of at least three days and nights non-stop. To accommodate the spilling number of worshippers, blessing ceremonies were performed in the smaller peripheral temples, most especially Pakendungan which is just 300 meters west from Tanah Lot.

the Pakendungan Temple which is 300 meters north of Tanah Lot

worshippers queuing in the Pakendungan Temple

Built in the early 1400s, the Pakendungan Temple is a complex that can easily be observed from the beach entrance of Tanah Lot. I almost decided to join in the celebration to take more intimate pictures. However, I had the entire family with me and I could not exactly be away for too long. Instead, I took pictures of the rites from the outside.

communal prayers at the Pakendungang Temple

Next: crossing the temple of Tanah Lot

To go: Tanah Lot is located in Beraban Village, district of Kediri, sub-province of Tabanan. It is about 13 km from Tabanan regency and 22 km from Denpasar. Access is easy by car.

elderly brahmana priests giving the final blessings to the worshippers

a Cebu favorite- the Kawasan Falls, part 1

2009-05-02T23:48:00.001+08:00

Having traveled some 100 kilometers from the big city for about 3 hours and then hiked some 30 minutes uphill, I was more than eager to be in Kawasan again. It is Cebu’s most famous waterfalls and I’ve been there twice or thrice. My last visit was some 10 years ago so I wanted to come back, with camera in tow of course.

a roiling stream beyond the second major falls

The first time I went to Kawasan was some 20 years back, during my backpacking days in college. Things have definitely changed.

the river of Matutinao, downstream

The trail upstream requires you to cross from one bank to the opposite side several times, so part of the thrill in the past was to balance yourself on makeshift bridges made of bound bamboos absent any hand railing. Now, there already are three concrete bridges that allow for easy crossings.

arched branches provide shade over the river

When before, I felt that I was entering into some uncharted territory through thick green forested thickets and muddy sludges, today, the track is semi-paved with pounded soil or concrete. Still, the trek may be lighter but thanks to a successful community-based environmental management, the “jungle” feeling still holds strong. To its credit, the Kawasan Nature Park, has been awarded numerous times as the cleanest and greenest river in the Philippines.

a concrete bridge before the first major falls

Except for the occasional local bather or laundry washer, a trek to the falls in the late 80s was an exercise of solitude and the occasionally eerieness. Today, the 2 kilometer road already sports modern conveniences from T-shirt stores to ambulant vendors selling cold drinks and ice cream. Who can say now that the journey cannot be leisurely and easy?

two smaller falls downstream of the first major falls

Part 2: the major falls

To go: Badian is about 90 km south from Cebu City via the southwest Carcar-Barili highway. The Kawasan Falls is in Matutinao, which is marked by a modern church of the same name.

the stone houses of Savidug, Sabtang Island, Batanes

2009-05-01T22:16:00.007+08:00

Exploring Sabtang Island, Batanes, part 1

In Sabtang, one of the three islands in Batanes that are lived in by men, life is pretty much traditional. The Ivatans, the indigenous group of Filipinos who are native to this least populated and most isolated province in the Philippines, still follow the culture of self-reliance, frugality and simplicity. Numbering only in the few thousands, the Ivatans in Sabtang are spread over 6 villages or barangays in such exotic names such as Chavayan, Sumnanga, Nakanmuan, Malakdang, Sinakan and Savidug.

the Savidug Barrio School in Savidug, Batanes, the Philippines

stone house construction in Batanes is simple, as shown here in Savidug

Each town has different attractions. Malakdang is known for the Nakabuang beach with the natural stone arch. Chavayan is renowned as a center of weaving the vacul, the grass raingear often used as a symbol of Batanes. For Savidug in the Midwestern shores, the cluster of old stone houses stands out, not just for their number but also for the traditional authenticity.

an old sugarcane crusher in Savidug

Representative to the Ivatan’s way of life are these domiciles. The houses are short and squat, obviously designed to withstand the typhoons frequenting the islands. Constructed from the available stones quarried from the lime cliff or coral reef floor, they are thick-walled. Roofs are cogon grass, thatched in several layers to withstand water and insulate from heat. There’s one thing unique too in Ivatan houses- there are still no locked doors and fences.

a boy looking out of a typical stone house in Savidug

a pretty Ivatan girl

Does this mean that everyone trust each other in Sabtang? Perhaps. Trust definitely reigns. Agricultural fields are hedged only with trees and bushes. Cattle roam free. The sense of community is definitely strong. Crime rate they say, is close to zero. Perhaps they are doing something right in Batanes and we, in the cosmopolitan word, should take heed.

a stone house in Savidug, unlocked and open

a stone house that is common in Savidug

To go. Sabtang can be accessed from Basco, Batanes via the port connection between Ivana (Batan) and Malakdang (Sabtang). Arrangements may be done via the Batanes Eco Cultural Tourism cooperative. Entry into Sabtang needs a permit from the DENR regional office which can be arranged by your hotel.

Hong Kong’s Symphony of Lights, again

2009-04-30T22:57:00.001+08:00

Weather was not cooperative. It was raining early in the evening of our 1-night Hong Kong stopover on our way from Surabaya to Cebu so the entire party had to move indoors. Our reservations at the swanky Rice Paper Vietnamese restaurant on the 3rd floor of the Gateway Arcade in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon originally was al fresco, on a wide balcony facing the River Ferry Terminal and overlooking a wide stretch of the Victoria Harbor. The vantage point was perfect for the Symphony of Lights.

Nevertheless, I was in the company of friends and family. Dinner was animated. Conversations and jokes flowed. Food was not bad at all. Expensive but tasty.

When the clock turned 8PM, it time for the light show and we all gathered at the balcony. The sky actually cleared and beams of colors gradually filled the sky.

Clearly, recession has hit Hong Kong and the Symphony of Light show was not spared. Part scrimping and part defaulting, there was less light drama this time than when I saw it last year (check out the Symphony of Light part 1 and part 2).

Not that the downscaling mattered to our daughter. Cacing had the time of her life, dancing with the flashing beams and bouncing happily with the music.

With all our baby stuffs, I chose not to bring my tripod. I checked it with the rest of my luggage. This doesn’t happen a lot but I managed as these photographs hopefully would show.

the Cacing Diaries #37

2009-04-29T21:56:00.002+08:00

at the Sukawati Art Market, Bali, Indonesia

There’s a certain window of time that Cacing will be in her full element, animated, alive and sparkling. It can’t be early in the morning as she is still gathering her bearing. Rule out lunchtime as she’d probably be sleepy, with 11AM her typical hour for a nap. You’ll also see her get cranky just before hitting the sack near 8PM.

Cacing being enamored with the bamboo chandelier. Here, she is with my friend Ketut

Looking like a gangster moll on a bike

In our travels like the recent one in Bali, her biological rhythms were all thrown in a jumble. Lucky then that in Bali, our points of destinations were at least an hour apart by car and as is her wont, she quickly fell asleep from the white noise and the rocking motion of a moving vehicle as if they were lullabies.

This pose looks as if she’s in a shampoo commercial!

We have lots of pictures of Cacing in Bali. Here are a few that I took at the Sukawati Art Market. I tried to capture Bali - the wildness of the colors and the call of the exotic.

with Dia, while shopping for Balinese housewares

surveying the stalls of Sukawati

Without a doubt though, the gem for me will always be Cacing’s smile.

Cacing classical scrunched smile is never far away

Smiling for my camera again, while being carried by Mama Pingping (my wife’s mom)

Tai chi in the City

2009-04-28T22:45:00.002+08:00

flexing at Chater Park, Hong Kong

There they were, about a dozen men and women, mostly seniors, performing balletic stances in the park, holding one pose for several seconds, then moving on to the next fluidly and effortlessly. The place was Chater Park in Hong Kong Central and the time was mid-morning on a Tuesday. A relatively younger guy was leading the group, demonstrating the techniques flawlessly and two young ladies were playing helpful martials for the troop. It is safe to assume that this was a class that is repeated not just in Chinese cities like Beijing and Taipei but also in major urban centers in Asia, Europe and North America.

The exercise is called tai chi or more accurately tai chi chuan, a form of Chinese martial art that is currently regularly practiced for health reasons. The art probably dates back to the 12th century, but the movement took root in the 15th century and exploded only quite recently in the later part of the 20th century.

Tai chi classes like the one I photographed in Hong Kong are becoming increasingly popular for its low impact on the body and soothing effect on the mind.

A sport even was developed from these classical poses, wushu, which is a mainstream feature of the Asian Games and the Southeast Asian Games (ASEAN). And when one says wushu, the images of kungfu and Jet Li aren’t that far from the mind.

There is enough scientific evidence that demonstrates that the practice of tai chi can lead to better balance, flexibility and weight reduction. Improvement on pain management and mental health are also well-documented.

Whatever the motivation, adherents are one in the belief that tai chi is all for the good. No arguments there.

the waterworld island Dawahon part 2

2009-04-27T19:56:00.005+08:00

continued from the waterworld island of Danahon, part 1 in colloidfarl.blogspot.com

It was my second time in Dawahon. I was there three or four years ago but did not really get off from the boat as time was not on our side. This time though we left quite early at 7:30AM so by about 10:30, we already were pulling into the small speck of an island.

the clear emerald and aqua waters in Dawahon

With seaweed cultivation in full swing this summer, the island looks like Leyte’s version of the water world. Farm houses and drying platforms of various make and sizes, from small bamboo affairs not more than 20 meter square to large 400 square meter platforms made of concrete have mushroomed around the periphery that Dawahon probably has grown twice in land area. Such is reclamation Dawahon-style.

Dawahon’s only “highway” which connects the two sitio’s or villages

Dawahon has no groundwater source so rain water is collected in receptacles like these giant concrete jars. Potable water is available from a local desalination plant set up by an entrepreneur.

Dawahon, the island is quite dense. Officially a barangay of Bato, Leyte, it has a population of 2,000 spread over 2 villages or sitios, namely Fatima and Sto Nino. Each sitio has its own chapel (which means a different fiesta for each) and basketball court (which makes intra-island games possible).

The chapel of Sitio Fatima at the western end of the highway

A short tour around the island definitely reveals that its main source of livelihood is seaweed. Fishing now has become a secondary industry. In every corner, seaweed is either being dried, tied, cleaned or weighed. These are well and good. It means that I have all the reasons to come back.

a typical bamboo platform for seaweed collection and drying in Dawahon

seaweed harvest is transported from the farms to the platforms in motorized boats

the Cacing Diaries #36

2009-04-26T19:36:00.003+08:00

Cacing in Hong Kong

Hong Kong was our stopover in our trip to Indonesia early this May. We really could not do a lot.

Cacing in her white “flight” getup

On our way to Surabaya, we arrived at Hong Kong almost midnight and left promptly in the afternoon. In the morning, we squeezed a short visit to the Victoria Peak, taking the famous tramway. Unfortunately, midway in the funicular ride, Cacing fell asleep as late morning is always naptime for her. We didn’t have the heart to wake her up so we took turns carrying our sleepyhead.

Hong Kong was chilly during our visit so Cacing had to be all bundled up

It was the reverse on the way home. We arrived late in the afternoon and we had the evening to ourselves before our flight early the next morning. Cacing, who already had her nap in the plane, was full of energy. It showed in the pictures here.

group picture at the Marco Polo Kowloon Gateway

Hurrah to beauty sleep!

strolling with her mom at the lobby of Marco Polo Kowloon Gateway

posing with family and friends at the Gateway with the Hong Kong skyline in the background

Food Fest at the Mactan Shrine

2009-04-25T21:44:00.000+08:00

It’s the week leading to the Kadaugan sa Mactan or the Victory of Mactan and since 2001, the city government and the tourism council are sponsoring a weeklong food festival that would end on the eve of the reenactment of the April 27, 1521 battle between Lapu-Lapu and the explorer Ferdinand Magellan.

the limestone obelisk at the Mactan Shrine, Lapu-Laput City, Cebu, the Philippines

Expectations were high when we went there last Wed (April 23). While we don’t exactly do this annually, this was to be my third time to dine in this festival and I was looking forward on checking what food there are being offered by Mactan’s numerous resorts at amazingly democratized prizes. With cuisines from big names like Shangri-La, the Hilton, Plantation Bay, Maribago Bluewaters and Tambuli on display who would not be tempted?

We arrived at past 6:30PM. Parking always would be a pain in the shrine but we found a spot near the northern gate. We had initial trouble securing a table but the greater difficulty was choosing which stall to queue.

a full crowd at the dining area set up near the beach

Eventually we picked the popular Shangri-La stall. Food was cheap! Large servings of the grilled chicken and beef with vegetables were at P60 each. The Plantation Bay’s noodles probably had the longest line though so we had to skip it. A Japanese restaurant had some appetizing offerings so we bought maki rolls and shrimp tempura, also at P60/serving. Ordinarily, they would be at more than 3x as expensive in but in the resorts and restaurants eschew revenues in favor of good PR and CSR (corporate social responsibility).

the tidal flat where the battle of Mactan occurred

Weather cooperated quite nicely. The skies were starless but the rains stayed out. Dinner was quite fun. A local band played Cebuano ditties atop the pavilion where the stalls were.

the food pavilion with a live band at the balcony on top

After getting some bit of desserts and baby-back rib takeouts of from the White Sands Resort (P150 including rice), we gallivanted around the shrine. I’m a pure bred Oponganon and I take pride of this historical place.

live cooking at the food booth of the White Sands Resort

Next year, we hope to be back.

the marker and mural at the memorial at Mactan

To go: The food festival is held annually at the Mactan Shrine on the week of April 27, the anniversary of the battle of Mactan, where on 1521, the local chieftain Lapu-Lapu defeated the Spanish forces led by Ferdinand Magellan. Mactan is about 10 kilometers northwest of the Lapu-Lapu City proper.

Chua Ong- an incense coil special

2009-04-24T20:59:00.001+08:00

pagoda-hopping in Vietnam part 3

This is the incense special.

Incense are mainly used in Buddhist temples for spiritual purification and blessing, not to mention for aromatic and aesthetic reasons.

Ever since I’ve been coming to Vietnam, I’ve always fancied going to a Buddhist temple and shooting the incense coils which so fascinated me. They are not available in the Philippines and I’m not sure if they are in Indonesia, at least not in the size and form that are common in Vietnam.

Incense coils or spirals are made by extruding the incense mixture into a coil without a core.

Spiral incense, depending on the size, can burn for several hours and even for days

So lo and behold, in my third (or is it my fourth?) business trip to Vietnam, I took the time to pagoda-hop in old Chinatown. I probably visited about four and it’s in the third temple, the Chua Ong, that I saw them in a beautifully lit array.

These incense coils are a type of direct burning incense, where the scents are released by lighting the actual incense.

Probably the most common scent of incense is sandalwood.

So here’s my tribute to those coils. Finally, I got them good.

In a study in Hong Kong, incense burning, contrary to popular belief, did not increase the risk of lung cancer among non-smokers and surprisingly reduced the risk among smokers.

It is possible people who regularly burn incense also engage in healthier dietary lifestyle, like eating more fresh fish and less alcohol.

For more of my pagoda-hop series in Vietnam, visit:
part 1: Thien Hau
part 2:Tam Son Hoi Quan
part 3:Chua Ong

It’s our second wedding anniversary!

2009-04-23T21:41:00.002+08:00

Let me greet my wife a Happy Wedding Anniversary! It’s our second year since we walked down the aisle of St Yosef Catholic Parish in Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia and pledged eternal commitment.

Two years and one Cacing later, here I am reminiscing the fateful day and what better way than publishing previously unseen pre-wedding pictures. As budgets go, I am no spendthrift. Throwing a wedding in Bali was costly enough – honestly, we estimated we would have spent more had we gotten married in Cebu but that’s another story – so we weren’t about to shell out precious rupiahs to a professional photographer in Bali, Indonesia’s most expensive city only to do all those corny and scripted poses.

Our thinking was, if we were to shame ourselves, we’ll do it at our convenience and our irreverent choreographed way.

So here goes nothing!

This was my best attempt to look pensive. I had the camera set on remote and took some pics at our room in Ayodya Resort in Bali.

Same room but we made use of the bed’s gigantic headboard for drama. I think we sat on a pile of pillows to get a clean shot.

This was just a snapshot after dinner. I remember getting some curious look from other diners of the Frangipani restaurant in Nusa Dua’s Bali Collection strip mall when I set up the tripod.

I guess I am too tall for the low-hanging bananas on display at the Moena Es Teler in Denpasar (photo by Ketut).

This is another photo taken by my friend Ketut. Dia and I were buying wristwatches as gifts to my friend who opened his house for the lunch reception in Bali.

A feeble attempt of local color. We were buying nasi bungkus lunch packs when we had Ketut take the photo.

How could we omit the fabulous Kuta beach? We merely stopped for a few minutes and had Ketut take the picture and then off we went.

As luck would have it, in a short stopover in the temple of Seminyak, there was a Saraswati ceremony attended by some high school kids. (photo by Ketut)

I wanted to have a photo of us in front of a temple and this was the nearest one in the vicinity after our short visit at Kuta beach.

The quaint Warung Kartini in Kuta was deserted so we played bussing lovebirds

The giant sculpted figure of Garuda was too colorful and large for us to let it go. There was a couple of chairs too so who were we to deny the photo op?

Also begging was the empty flight of stairs at the Mandarin Oriental where we stayed when we made the requisite personal appearance at the Philippine Embassy in Jakarta

The lobby of the Mandarin Oriental became fair game for us too.

This is a more corny and stiffer version of the sunrise silhouette

Shopping time is posing time. Here in a sarung store in Kuta, we struck a pose.

My knowing expression here still makes me laugh.

the wonders of the River Loboc

2009-04-22T21:31:00.002+08:00

a summer favorite

Bohol is often compared to Cebu. Unsurprisingly, the smaller and quieter province that is Bohol might pale in comparison to the flashier and richer state that is Cebu. Cebu can match and debatably exceed what Bohol has to offer – think of beach resorts, centuries-old churches, business buzz, cosmopolitan and entertainment sophistication. But not really. When it comes to natural bounties, Bohol can easily outshine Cebu. Here’s just a short litany of Bohol’s natural wonders that Cebu could envy: wider reefs and sandbars, taller waterfalls, larger caverns, more exotic fauna.

the tarsiers at the banks of Loboc are a popular attraction

typical scene alongside Loboc River

And let me add, the River that is Loboc. For all of Cebu’s chutzpah, my home province sorely lacks a raging voluminous freshwater river that has the size in life and energy of Loboc.

portrait of a boy who hitched a ride in our river cruise

I admit I must have taken Loboc River cruises at least four times and I never tire of repeating the upstream ride. Who could not enjoy the enveloping lushness of the bamboo thickets and fruit tree forest, the deepening crescendo of the river currents and the soothing coolness of being in the heart of a world of water and greens? Whether I pick the commercial floating restaurants which are are actually two native catamarans bound and boarded together (note: they offer buffets and live entertainment to boot) or opt for the smaller and cheaper banca, I always try to straight up to the wildly charging Busay Falls.

the Busay Falls which marks the end of the Loboc River cruise

Luck must be on Loboc’s side as it has more than its share of attractions than most other parts of the province. This town is known as a haven of the famous tarsier, one of the smallest primates in the world. Its church, the St. Peter the Apostle, boasts of fantastic murals, relieves and history. It also serves as the base of the world famous Loboc Children's Choir which supports the town claim as the music capital of Bohol.

Loboc is known as the music capital of Bohol

the Church of St Peter, the Apostle, as seen from the riverside

For all these bragging rights, I still dare say that nothing compares to the joy of the cruise. I play favorites and I love the river most.

playful local boys often joyride on the river cruises

To go to Loboc: Loboc is only some 24 kilometers or 40 minutes ride from the capital Tagbilaran City. Take the jeepney, mini-bus or habal-habal motorcycle.

Loboc, in sepia

the waterworld island Dawahon part 1

2009-04-21T17:21:00.005+08:00

As if getting back from a week-long business travel from Indonesia was easy, last week, I had to make a day trip over the expansive bank of Dawahon. The reef is one of the most extensive in the Visayas, spanning from where the Olango Channel of Cebu ends, stretching over a good part of Northern Bohol and edging into Canigaso Channel of Ormoc Bay of Leyte.

the Dawahon reef at Leyte’s side

the flecks are seaweed farmhouses not islets

Dawahon was ground zero in the cultivation of carrageenan-bearing seaweed in the Visayas in the 1980s. Production was primarily centered on the two types of guso seaweed: spinosum and cottonii. Production has since increased and experienced peaks and lows. Today, the reef could net at least 7,000 dry metric tons on an annual basis.

the island appears twice its size because of the burgeoning number of seaweed drying platforms around the island

Dawahon island up close

For the species known as spinosum, the title of top producer flits between two small islands in the eastern tip of the reef: Hingutanan which is a part of Bien Unido, Bohol and the island immediately east of it, Dawahon which is already part of Leyte.

entering Dawahon Island

To get there from Cebu, the best route is to head to Buot pier in Punta Engano, Mactan Island, where numerous boats could be hired. We recently tried the professional boat operator Eris which has an office right at entrance of the port and their rates were quite competitive. As our destination would be the island of Danahon which is at least 50 kilometers away, we decided on their fastest boat which is already a fairly sized boat that can take in 20 people comfortably.

docking into the island can be tricky

The trip took us some 3 hours across perfectly still waters and under unbelievably sunny and clear skies. The conditions have been ideal in the past week or so and we picked a fine day for the trip.

a typical seaweed drying platform, one of about more than a hundred surrounding the small island

Next: Inside the island

a Bali favorite- Tanah Lot, part 1

2009-04-20T21:27:00.001+08:00

Beyond the postcard spectacle, the temple of Tanah Lot is a source of strength and power for the faithful in Hindu Bali. The collective belief of life beyond the physical is inculcated in a society who holds sacred the basic elements of the sun, the earth, the sea, all of which are converged in this temple in Tabanan, some 20 kilometers away from the capital.

March 20, 2002

October 26, 2006

Literally meaning land (tanah) and sea (lot), the temple sits on a rocky islet separated from the mainland by the sea. The temple directly faces the west, and as a “sunset” temple, its silhouette against the void of the Indian Ocean is world-famous.

October 10, 2005

October 22, 2006

Whittled into its current craggy shape by the strong wind and surf, the temple is easily accessible during low tide although crossings during high water are common, especially during temple anniversaries or important ceremonies, as I personally witnessed last week.

October 10, 2005

April 3, 2009

Soon: More of the temple celebration at Tanah Lot.

the Cacing Diaries #35

2009-04-19T17:01:00.002+08:00

Cacing in Surabaya

My travel in the first week this April was to be my first business trip abroad. So for about 8 days, all of us – me, my wife, my daughter Cacing, my mom and my wife’s mom –embarked on a trip to Indonesia.

at times, Cacing can turn serious and lady-like like in this take at the Shang Palace, Shangri-La Surabaya, Indonesia

Cacing’s version of blowing kisses

To make it easy on Cacing, who is just about a year and 2 months old, we decided to slow down the pace and stay one night each in Hong Kong and Surabaya on our way to and from Bali.

three generations of women in my life at the lobby of Shangri-La Surabaya, Indonesia

Cacing actually held up well in the flights. Except for the final flight from Surabaya to Hong Kong which took about 4 hours plus when Cacing got bored and seemed to have trouble with the cabin pressurization, she was her usual ebullient self when awake. Mostly, she was drowsy. The monotonous drone of the plane’s engine probably reminded her of the car and during a drive, she always gets sleepy.

no one can stop Cacing from marching about even if she still could not stand on her own (at the Bandar Udara Surabaya International Airport)

she can be a show off

To kick off Cacing’s pictures of the Indonesia trip, I am publishing here her photos in taken in Surabaya. These are happy pics.

looking glamorous with a caftan over her swimsuit at the pool of Surabaya Shangri-La

tousled hair becomes her

Cacing loves the water and it shows in her face

mother and daughter at the pool

squeal of delight

me, carrying my daughter above water

a big splash

Cherry blossom time in Kyoto

2009-04-18T20:29:00.000+08:00

In my only trip to Japan, I could not have a better timing. It was sakura time!

Sakura or cherry blossom viewing is a national obsession and no place in Japan is more renowned for the blooms than the noble city of Kyoto. And there I was in Kyoto in springtime.

I think I was a week or two ahead of the actual Sakura festival but I was not about to complain. The abundance of cherry blossoms always is a good omen of good fortune in Japan and seeing the showers and showers of pink made me feel blessed.

the Selong that I knew and not

2009-04-17T22:39:00.002+08:00

The trimmed flower shrub-lined highways, the tall glass-walled commercial buildings, the modern street and direction signs, even the uniformed policemen patrol cars surprised me. This was not the Selong I knew thirteen years ago.

drying rice (?) by the road at Selong, Lombok, Indonesia

Being the capital of Lotim (short for Lombok Timor or East Lombok), the city Selong has always been the epicenter of business in this southeast corner of Lombok. However, way back in 1993-1995, the period of my life that I was its constant visitor – I typically stayed there for a week 4 times a year – Selong was as backwater a town bereft of tourism can be. It was contagiously slow, defiantly unharried and relatively uncrowded.

women going to the market in a cidomo (horse carriage)

Except for the regular Monday cattle market, nothing much disturbed the pace in Selong in the early 90s. Not the constant and inescapable calls for loudspeaker-blared calls-for-prayers by the mosques that are everywhere, not the transiting traffic of inter-island buses (Selong is at the crossroads to many destinations in and out of Lombok, including Sumbawa in the East), nor the daily bustle of horse-drawn cidomo ferrying people from place to place.

a colorfully-painted public bus

I remember vividly jogging almost every day break on the asphalt roads, passing by the small scattering of warung stalls openly peddling freshly cooked food. Now, more than a decade later, there are already numerous eateries and restaurants dotting the streets that are now in paved cement. When before these same thoroughfares were only notable for the wide, relatively clean Dutch-made canals at the side – granted that they often were used as open-air toilets by the people but they were highly effective in controlling flashfloods and sported surprisingly clear running waters – today, billboards and posts with advertisement signage are everywhere.

menfolks going to the mosque

At its core though, I sense the same religious fervency. Islam was and still is the center of life in Selong. Mosques are still full especially during Friday. From seniors to adults to school-age kids, people still sling their sajada prayer rugs on their shoulders and march cheerfully to their masjid of worship. I witnessed a funeral march and like before, it still is conducted by men, with the women segregating themselves and waiting at the mosques. More and more mosques have sprouted, with few more in various state of construction, as evidenced by scaffolded minarets and the omnipresent men flagging motorists for donations.

minaret under construction

men leaving the mosque after the Friday prayers

Ah, conservatism runs deep in Selong. This, time probably will not be able to alter.

a funeral march performed by men

the charms of Candi Dasa

2009-04-16T22:55:00.002+08:00

My memories of Candi Dasa are all pleasurable. Back in 1992, the black beach was not as crowded as it is now but the district already has reached a critical number of restaurants, cafes and hotels that makes it the most developed tourist area in East Bali. We’d often be in Klungkung for work and Candi Dasa was a logical spot to get a decent meal. The cool breeze, the hot volcanic sand, the pure village vibes were unbeatable charms that beckon the weary traveler.

traditional boats by the beach of Candi Dasa

four craggy islets dot the coast of Candi Dasa, making for a surreal landscape

Candi Dasa was definitely my former boss’ favorite place to hangout and we only were too glad to oblige when we were invited to join him for a late lunch. While I never got the chance to stay there overnight, Candi Dasa is still a lure and will always be in the years to come.

public pavilions for those who’d like to spend some peaceful reverie

the beach of black volcanic sand

Kowloon’s the Gateway

2009-04-15T22:54:00.002+08:00

The Victoria harbor views from the banks of Kowloon are impressive, if not legendary. Hong Kong lies before you and the urban sprawl brags skyscraper gems such as the Citibank and the IFC buildings. Add to the mix, some Chinese junks (they are for tourists nowadays) and the cruise ships, and the urban dreamscape becomes complete.

the instantly recognizable Bank of China building

the IFC, tallest building of Hong Kong and once, of the world

the Ocean Terminal at the Gateway

In Kowloon, a renowned kick-ass vantage point is the Gateway in Tsim Sha Tsui. Part of Harbour City, the Gateway has hotels, the Ocean Terminal, office buildings and a classy shopping mall. Located in the west side of Canton Road, it makes you realize that Hong Kong, without a doubt, is a class of its own.

a view to the Hong Kong skyline

a stained glass ceiling centerpiece at the Gateway

the atrium of the shopping arcade

Surf’s up at Pantai Seseh

2009-04-14T22:33:00.002+08:00

In nondescript road in Canggu, Tabanan, lies the black sandy beach of Seseh which are regularly bandied around by surfers as a happening place. The dark volcanic sand makes it less appealing to the tourists who favor the white sand of Kuta and Nusa Dua but being left off the main maps means no crowds too. For locals in the area then, Pantai Seseh can be a quiet place to have a picnic, watch the sunset over the Indian Ocean and learn a surfing trick or two in the challenging waves.

the surf can be wild in Pantai Seseh, Canggu, Tabanan, Bali, Indonesia

the beach of Seseh extends widely over Canggu

strong waves do not deter traditional boats from plying the waters for fishing

Villas are just beginning to sprout but they are discreetly tucked away from the beach. Shops are few along the road and ambulant vendors are scarce. Maybe the beach isn’t something to crow about but in a place like Bali where space is a premium this beach is just a development investment away from commercialism.

one moment, the swirling sea can be peaceful

the next, the waves can come crashing with violence

For a beach only some 15 minutes away from the magnetic temple of Tanah Lot and extends by kilometers as far as the eyes can see, this can be certainly.

lone surfer waiting for the big wave

a giant wave sneaked up on us during group picture time

a family reunion: an Easter Sunday banquet at Talisay

2009-04-13T19:37:00.003+08:00

a Lenten Special

Easter, being the biggest holiday in Christiandom, is best celebrated with family. This year, we all went to my Mom’s place at Talisay where my Auntie Aster prepared a banquet for the immediate family. A professional nutritionist who is now a successful caterer, she can cook up the best of Filipino dishes the traditional Cebuano way.

the pre-banquet snacks: my all time favorite native sweet, the biko

For someone who just abstained from eating meat for the 40 days of Lent, I was dying to eat pork and the party spread did not disappoint. My aunt’s grilled pork was the great abstinence-breaker. It wallowed in such a sweet marinade that even before lunch started, I was filching off pieces off the serving dish.

Auntie Aster's sinugbang baboy

Lunch started a bit late as the kids were having an easter egg hunt and my daughter Cacing even had some action. My cousin Cheyenne, on vacation from New York, helped her find an egg so that she would not come out empty handed.

When we finally dig in the buffet, I made sure I had a big chunk of the dark humba pork knuckles (much like adobo but with lots of soy sauce and some sugar) which was so great it was sinful.

humba in dark sweetened soy sauce

My favorite though was the crispy pata or deep-fried pork feet. The pork skin was so crunchy and crispy that it can easily put the famed Carcar chicharon to shame.

crispy pata

For those who would opt for leaner white meat, there was chicken too. My aunt chose to serve native spring chicken, broiled and served whole.

manok bisaya

As added caloric fair, spaghetti and meatballs were served too. Of course, to countermand the cholesterol assault, vegetable dishes came a plenty. There was bitter gourd with egg and pepper, an eggplant stew and the empanada (fried pockets of diced potatoes, carrots, eggs and pork). Seafood was not the call of the day although there was lukot which from a distance could look like string noodles but is really the secretion of the sea hare.

spaghetti with meatballs

paliya (bitter gourd)

tawong guisado

tinunuang lukot (sea hare secretion in coconut milk)

empanada

the empanada filling

Desserts never take a backseat in our family gatherings. Being partial to native delicacies, I had my fill with sticky rice concoctions like my all-time favorite biko. There too were the sapin-sapin and the cassava pitsi-pitsi, sometimes spelled peche-peche. My Aunt Olive also brought in her creamy leche flan or caramel custard which was just divine and perfectly formed. Plus for the chocolate-inclined, there was chocolate cake.

Auntie Olive’s fabulously rich leche flan

sapin-sapin and pitsi-pitsi

To drown us more in our food coma, later in the afternoon, we were served some freshly prepared native cocoa chocolate sikwate and a homemade puto (white sticky rice, steamed with ginger and sugar) which came from an old recipe handed down from at least three generations.

puto and sikwate

Never easy to beg off from food but hey, it was Easter. May you all had a wonderful weekend as well.

the Easter Sunday Sugat at Sta Fe, Bantayan

2009-04-12T18:42:00.000+08:00

a Lenten Special

To most people, the happiest Christian holiday is Christmas. Perhaps but not quite. In Catholic orthodoxy, it really is Easter, the day when the promise of salvation is fulfilled and Christ came back from the dead. This day is greeted by mirth and merriment befitting the culmination of the promise of the forgiveness of sin and the acceptance into heaven.

the sugat at Sta Fe, Bantayan was participated by people of all ages

In the Philippines, a grand tradition continues to this day in celebration of Easter. Performed in the wee hours of Easter Sunday morning is Salubong or Sugat in the Cebuano-speaking regions. This pre-dawn ritual, as its name suggests, is a depiction of the imagined meeting of the Risen Christ's with Mary, His mother.

costumed dancers performed before the meeting of the two processions

The occasion is not just a spectator event as the community participates by joining two separate processions. The statues of the Risen Christ and select Apostles (the identities can vary by location) are led by menfolk and the icons of the ladies led by Virgin Mary are ushered by the women. The two solemn parades often converge in a specially prepared meeting place or sugatanan usually in the churchyard.

a passion play preceded the convergence of the two processions

the statue of the Risen Christ led by men making its way into the church while the passion play was winding up

Some communities would hold a short play of the Passion, from Christ’s conviction through Crucifixion to the burial of His dead body in a cave guarded by Roman soldiers. The The part where the missing body is discovered missing in Easter morning by Mary Magdalene and Mary of Cleophas is timed when the two processions shall arrive. Usually, the two parties are separated by an arch or by a curtain.

a giant white curtain cordoned the main street of Sta Fe in front of the church for the sugat processions

The climax occurs when a tiny girl dressed as an angel is lowered by ropes from a high platform to lift the mourning veil of the grieving Mother. Then the celebration of Easter begins and church bells are rung, alleluias are sung, the icons are brought inside the church and the mass is celebrated.

the Risend Christ being brought before the sugatanan

the parted curtain showed the meeting of Christ and Mother Mary (note the unopened false ceiling at the arch)

In the Philippines, the more famous salubong plays are performed in the provinces of Cebu, Rizal, Naga, Pampanga, Bataan and Marinduque. Easily the most grand of Cebu’s sugat presentations is in Minglanilla where numerous girls are suspended in mechanical contraptions.

the false ceiling parted while a girl angel was lowered down by rope harness

the angel lifts the black veil to signify the end of mourning

I have not yet witnessed the Minglanilla kabanhawan (resurrection) festival but almost every town has their own version albeit in a smaller scale. The photographs here are the ones I took in town of Sta Fe, Bantayan Island. Their affair was down to earth, subdued and intimate but no less sincere in declaring the joy that is Easter.

the Virgin Mary revealed

the celebration began after the veil was lifted

Happy Easter everyone!